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It really is an art form. I made a lot of mistakes when I first started getting baby chicks. Luckily for you, I can tell you the mistakes I made, so you have the option of not making them yourself.

Baby chicks require more work than grown chickens. Preparation really is key. Ask yourself if you are really ready to take care of chicken babies. In this guide we’ll be talking about buying chickens, and how to do like a pro. How?

I actually won awards after breeding my hens. We’ll get into brooding later. That is a different topic. Baby chickens need to be provided with shelter and a bin that maintains a temperature of 72 degrees. In some places it may be too cold still to ensure this. That’s why you might consider keeping them in a bin in your house.

Now, before you do this first ask yourself if you own a cat. Baby chicks are very vulnerable and not yet big enough to not be considered prey for your cat. Typically until April 29, most outdoor or farm stores will be selling baby chicks. A lot of places even have the arrival of chicks emblazoned on their outdoor signs.

I like buying chicks from a local feed store. I’m not keen on buying them in the mail. Theirs extra precautions and I’m still not sure about it. If you know a good breeder who ships baby chicks, please leave a comment and let us know.

If you have your box ready for them with water and feed, you are ready to go! It really is a passionate personal joy for me. I love holding baby chicks. If you’re not sure, still go to the store and just look at the babies.

If you’re not excited for the extra work, you may not want to bother with it. I get excited for the new arrivals of chicks. I also love the different varieties. It can be a joy or an extra burden. If it’s an extra burden for you, you might consider not getting babies.

Since I’m talking to fellow homesteaders, I’m going to assume you all love getting baby chicks. It’s a bit of extra work, but the rewards are worth it. Here’s what I did, and I hope you share with me what you do that I may not know.

Five Steps To Bring Them Home

Before you bring home your baby chicks, you will need to take a few necessary steps to ensure your new babies have the right nest to thrive. Most likely, they will come home in a box and you should put the box in the place you are planning to put them and let them discover their new surroundings on their own.

Always buy more than one chick. A single chick needs companionship. Your baby chick will die of fright if you buy one and leave them alone outside. They need to come in groups. They will have each other for soothing and comfort.

I’ve always lived in areas that I could own as many chickens that I wanted. If you live in the city, know the laws. Many places you can only own three and at a distance from the road. In most cities you can’t own a rooster. If you buy your baby chicks from a store, most likely they have been sext.

Occasionally, a boy chick will get into the mix and once it starts crowing, you’ll be alerting your neighbors you have something that may be illegal. Do not move your girls into the coop until they reach their teenage years. The older hens will peck on the birds and they need to be able to defend themselves.

If you’ve heard the term hen-pecking, know this is a real thing. It is something they do to provide order to their coop. If you introduce this too young, they won’t be old enough to handle it and they could get pecked to death. The number one mistake people make is overcrowding.

Don’t buy more birds than you can handle. If you overcrowd your girls, they’ll start pecking each other even more. Give your young hens a chance to start laying. Some lay as early as four months, some as late as a year. Be patient.

Once, I bought chicks in winter. I’m not totally against this, but it was extra work to keep them warm, I had to put special vitamins in their water and when my power went out once in the middle of the night I didn’t know, and they almost froze to death.

I recommend you buy chicks in the spring and be patient for eggs. You will have the option to buy chicks in the winter, but know you are adding extra work. I like to buy my chicks in the spring, and simply grow them into hens and repeat the next year.

To me this is easier and less pain. I struggled with getting chicks in the winter. I really didn’t enjoy it and if you’re not liking it, you won’t be doing it. I enjoy a simple farm life and having a small farm. I enjoy getting chicks. I did not enjoy taking care of them in the winter.

One plus, was that I could get eggs in the summer. Most chickens will start laying eggs between four months and a year. By buying winter chicks, I did open the door to that possibility.

Bedding

Your new baby chicks will need a nest. Local farm stores do sell this. I like to get a smaller bedding for baby chicks. I want their bed to be soft and easy to clean.

I use pine shavings and then when I move them into the coop, I’ve heard that some prefer hay and some prefer shavings. When I get baby chicks I don’t plan on keeping them in the place I allocate for them. If you have a specific preference please feel free to comment.

If you live in the city and have a relatively small backyard, you can still get baby chicks. It does have some preparation. First you want to find a local feed store. Make friends with them. Chances are they have had chicks or know what you will need to buy to raise them into layers.

You can raise chickens in a farm, urban or suburban environment. It really isn’t that much work. If you don’t want to build a coop, you can purchase one ready made.

The first thing you want to do is find out exactly what the specific ordinances or rules are. You don’t want to buy bedding and set up your home nest and then find out your city or HOA has a rule that says you can’t own chickens. Some people prefer breeders, it really is what works for you.

If you don’t want to spend a bunch of money making a separate containment for your baby chicks, consider asking a local store if they have any apple boxes they are planning to throw away. They will likely give it to you and provide you with a cheap home for your baby chicks.

Put the water, food and bedding in this box. All they really need is a container and temperature control. Be sure your box doesn’t have wholes large enough that your baby chicks can get out.

Water

Your baby chicks will need fresh water every day. Feed stores sell water dispensers for relatively cheap. Remember to change it every day. They need fresh/clean water every day. It’s easer for them to drink from a water container made for them. They are relatively cheap and very useful.

You want everything set up before your chicks arrive. If you have your chicks for more than one day, you will see how they mistakenly poop in their water. That’s why you change it every day and keep the water dispenser clean.

There are vitamins you can add to the water. It is unnecessary unless you buy them in the winter. If they are getting proper feed, grit and clean water they don’t need supplements added to their water.

Feed

I avoid buying medicated feed. I also try to buy only non-GMO feed. At my first homestead at a local farm store, some local farmers made their own feed. I preferred this. I like to buy local and to support local farmers in any way I can. They added peas to the feed. This provided added nutrition to my growing girls.

Temperature

A simple heat lamp above your baby chick box will keep your new chicks heated. The temperature of the brooding box needs to be kept at 72 degrees. You can then drop the temperature by five degrees per week. You really have to be careful with the temperature of your baby chicks. They are delicate and do need extra care.

Grit

When you introduce them to grit, you need to know that grit should always be introduced in food. I like to make them scrambled eggs with chia seeds before I introduce them to dirt. Baby chicks do need grit to survive. They won’t die from eating it. It really is natural and if you are skeptical start with chia seeds.

I also like to use flax seeds before I move them to dirt. You don’t want to over feed them. They can eat things from the garden and things like quinoa. They may not think they like it at first, but give them a chance. It really is like a little kid trying something for the first time.

Avoid dried foods like beans, and rice is an absolute no. Everything you give them should be cooked and is not a food that will absorb water and expand in their stomach.

If you see bloody diarrhea that looks like uncooked hamburger, that is a sign of a parasite in their intestine. If that happens, They will need medicine.

By adding a teaspoon of medicine to their feed, you will be able to treat them. You want to add this filler for five days. You will want to treat your entire flock. If one has this parasite, chances are they all have it. It does take time and you won’t know necessarily which bird has it. They can get it from ground water, from handling, from soil. It needs to be treated.

Awareness is key, and it will need to be treated. If you see one of your birds being listless, that is also a sign. A parasite can kill your flock. They will need treatment.

Chicks love to dust bathe.Wood ash is a perfect thing to provide them to roll around. Mix it with meal worms and don’t be surprised if they actually eat most of it. This keeps off pests from their feathers. It is a part of the natural way they live. The more natural environment you can give them, the better.

Post Office Chicks

Some people like to buy their baby chicks from a service that sends them in the mail. Never buy from a service that has them travel for more than three days. Once your chicks arrive, make sure they drink water immediately.

Know that they haven’t had water for three days. Dipping their bills in water immediately after unwrapping will ensure their thirst is quenched. If you get a damaged or deformed chick, call the place and have them send you another chick. If one of your chicks comes deformed, that can be extra work.

One of the most common deformities is referred to as pasty butt. In the area they poop, some chicks will get poop stuck. This will clog the colon of the bird and if not treated they will die. Care for this needs to be done with delicacy.

If you have a chick with pasty butt, gently clean the poop off with a Q-tip. Then put petroleum jelly on the exposed skin. Do not clog the colon when doing this.

Usually, the chick will eventually grow out of that, it is a deformity and is unplanned and something you paid for that brought you additional work. Your breeder needs to know that this deformity has been included in his or her bird’s bloodline.

Business or Hobby?

There are people out there who don’t like chickens, but love eggs. Once your chickens are laying put a sign up in front of your house. Most eggs sell for around $3 per dozen. If you’re looking for egg cartons, you can purchase unused one online or get repurposed ones from friends. People love farm fresh eggs.

Another option is to participate in your local farmers market. Eggs literally fly from booths at the Farmers Market. It’s still America’s favorite breakfast food and getting eggs straight from your home farm, can help you pay for your hobby. It is a very simple way to enjoy the hard work of loving up on baby chicks. They are extra work, but they do provide a lot of rewards. They can feed your stomach and your soul.

Training

Chickens can do tricks. I like to start my chicks young and get meal worms. Once they do something I ask they get a meal worm. I find this very enjoyable. If you train them really good, you can get your chicks to do an obstacle course. You can buy meal worms at your local feed store.

When you start training them choose a command and only use it before they get a meal worm. They’ll learn that when you say that specific phrase they get a treat. You will then be able to train them to do anything.

Composting

My favorite post-dinner snack for my teenage girls is corn on the cob. This isn’t a food I give young babies. I have always fed my baby chicks food from my dinner table. I’ve fed them pasta, I’ve fed them leftover casserole.

They love it. I have even found ant hills and scooped up live ants for them. They love it. At my first homestead we had fire ants. They can really sting if they bite you. That’s why I recommend if you do this, you are covered. I’ve picked up enough ants, that I automatically know how to protect myself.

Showing Your Chicks

Again, know the rules at the local farm. The year I showed my chickens, they were teenagers. The judges look for no pests and if they fit the specific breed. I used a spray on their feathers that was made for humans. This killed any lice and made them more presentable.

Adding Them To The Coop

When they first come home do not add them right away. You are exposing them to unknown parasites and an established pecking order. This could cause chaos and create a toxic environment. I like to wait until they have all their feathers and are bigger than my cat before I move them in. They will need a separate nesting box for the first few weeks after you bring them home.

SEXTING

If you have more than one rooster, you are asking for trouble. They will fight and potentially abuse the hens. The best way to avoid this is by buying baby chicks from a farm store where the birds have previously been screened for gender.

You still may get a rooster, but one is just fine. If you end up with an additional rooster, try to re-home it or consider butchering it. One year I ended up with four roosters and it caused me nothing but trouble. I had to buy a special spray because the roosters kept plucking the back feathers off my hens. Overcrowding is an issue, but having more than one rooster is an absolute no.

Did we miss something? We’d love to hear your suggestions. Please comment below and tell us your experience with baby chicks.

The post Buying Chickens: A Step By Step Guide appeared first on The Homesteading Hippy.

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Corn is the quintessential American plant. Cultivated in North America for thousands of years, this plant is a favorite of gardeners all around the world. Fresh, golden corn is easy to grow in a backyard garden, allowing you to cook dozens of ears at a fraction of the price you would pay at the supermarket.

Even better, it’s low maintenance, making it the perfect plant for you to grow this summer, no matter how little gardening experience you might have.

Health Benefits of Corn

Technically a grain, corn is commonly considered a vegetable, largely because it is so high in various vitamins, minerals, fiber, and antioxidants. Corn is commonly grown around the world, and offers numerous health benefits. Although corn is high in sugar, it is a food that should be included in any healthy diet.

Corn is rich in vitamin B12, folic acid, iron, and more. While it tends to be higher in carbohydrates than any other macronutrient, it does also contain protein and minimal quantities of fat. It can even help lower your blood sugar and cholesterol levels, as it is high in Vitamins B5, B1, and C.

The Many Faces of Corn: Ornamental, Sweet, and Field Corn

When you’re poring over your seed catalog, you may be taken aback by the hundreds of different types of corn varieties available to gardeners. Sweet corn is the most common type of corn grown by conventional backyard gardeners, but certainly not the only kind. Ornamental and field corn are also popular depending on your needs.

Sweet corn is the most popular kind of corn grown in the garden, and it is what is traditionally used for classic corn on the cob. This type of corn preserves well, making it a favorite for canned, frozen, or creamed corn recipes, and is picked before the kernels have a chance to dry out.

Sweet corn is technically harvested during the immature stage, meaning the kernels are nice and tender, comprised of soft starches that will not pop when exposed to heat.

Ornamental corn, also known as Indian corn and flint corn, has a hard outer shell. It usually appears in a myriad of colors, making it an attractive option for sprucing up your home in the autumn months. It is primarily used for decoration and is not usually edible.

However, some types of flint corn are also prized as popping corns. These varieties tend to have a hard exterior shell with a soft, starchy center. The moisture inside the starchy center of the corn produces steam and builds up pressure, causing it to explode and produce popcorn when exposed to heat.

The final type of corn, field corn, is also commonly referred to as dent corn. It is the most widely grown type of corn in the United States, but not for human consumption.

This type of corn is grown for livestock feed, as well as some food products that require processed-down corn. Containing a mixture of hard and soft starches, the kernels become indented when they are dried.

While these three major types of corn vary widely in their culinary purposes, they are all grown in a relatively similar fashion, with the exception to this being in how they are harvested.

That being said, you do need to pay particular attention the variety of seed you purchase, as you don’t want to find yourself with four dozen ornamental corn plants on your hands when you expected to be enjoying some tasty corn on the cob.

Varieties of Corn

When it comes to sweet corn, keep in mind that the kernels of most sweet corn varieties will start to change to starch immediately after you have picked the ears. This is why you want to eat them as soon as they are harvested, or within as little time as possible. That being said, there are newer, hybridized species of sweet corn that hold onto their sugar content for much longer.

When you are looking for the best variety of corn to pick, consider this new feature and select a variety that is listed as supersweet. While these varieties will have a tastier, fresher flavor, they may not hold up as well to hot or dry conditions. Pick a standard variety of corn for an old-fashioned flavor, or consider more synergistic varieties for an updated take on the dinnertime classic.

While there are dozens of types of sweet corn you can choose from, there are several standouts in regards to popularity and ease of growing. Among the most commonly grown species are Peaches and Cream, Sugar Buns, Incredible, Miracle, Honey and Pearl, Supersweet Jubilee, and Silver Queen.

Categories of sweet corn can be broken down into whether they are standard, sugar enhanced, or super sweet. Standard sweet corn has lower sugar content but can germinate easily in colder soil, and includes varieties like Jubilee and Silver Queen.

Sugar-enhanced sweet corn includes types like Incredible, Sugar Buns, Peaches and Cream, and Miracle. These types of corn have higher sugar content and store well after they have been harvested.

The final type of corn, super sweet corn, includes types like Honey and Pearl, Phenomenal, and How Sweet It Is. These corns germinate poorly in cold soils, making them inopportune for gardeners who want to get a headstart on the growing season.

If you are growing a blend of standard, sugar-enhanced, and super sweet corn, you will need to isolate them to ensure you don’t have problems with cross-pollination.

That said, if you have plenty of space in the garden, why not try out a mixture of varieties? Plant some hybrid species for a super sweet snack, or add some ornamental or popping corn in, both of which are shockingly easy to care for.

When purchasing your seeds, account for roughly twelve plants per person in your household. Count on more if you want to preserve a large batch of corn by freezing, drying, or canning it. If you want an extended harvest, consider sowing fresh seeds every two or six weeks. You can plant early-season, mid-season, and late-season types all at the same time as well for the same effect, too.

How to Plant Corn

Corn is one of the few plants that does not transplant well, and as a result should be grown directly from seed. If you garden in a colder climate with a short growing season, consider using biodegradable pots. This will allow you to transplant the entire pot into the ground, rather than having to disturb the roots as you take the plant out of the soil.

Ideally, you should wait to plant (or transplant, if necessary) until the absolutely last minute. Make sure all danger of a frost is past, and allow the soil to warm up to at least 60 degrees Fahrenheit. This the ideal temperature for seed germination.

If the temperature is staying cold and you don’t have any more time to spare, consider laying black plastic on the areas where you intend to plant. You can remove it before you lay your seeds down, or you can plant directly into the plastic itself after letting it warm the soil for a few days.

When you’re ready to plant, sow seeds about an inch deep. If you’re planting in particularly hot weather, plant them up to two inches deep. You can plant seeds close together (roughly seven or eight inches apart), because corn has a relatively low germination rate. This will help prevent large, bare gaps in your corn patch.

Seeds germinate in roughly seven to ten days. If you have more than one plant arise in close proximity, you can thin your plants. Ideally, they should be spaced to one every fifteen inches for best results. To thin your plants, cut unwanted seedlings off at soil level instead of ripping them up out of the ground by their roots, as this can cause damage to the surrounding plants.

How to Grow Corn

Corn needs roughly an inch of water per week, but this requirement increases during hot, dry weather as well as during the period when the stalks are beginning to form tassels.

If your corn is water stressed, you will end up with multiple ears with few kernels. To make sure you are watering your corn adequate, use a soaker hose or a drip irrigation system. If you’re watering by hand, try not to spray them from above, as this can remove pollen and halt the process altogether.

Weeding is also very important in the early stages of corn development. Kill all weeds around the stalks during the first month of growth. After that, the roots will spread out about a foot from the stalk, so you need to be more careful in your weed removal techniques.

Your best bet is to apply a thick layer of mulch (like wood chips or straw) around the base of the plants to prevent new weeds from sprouting. This will also help the ground stay moist and allow the soil to retain all of the nutrients your corn needs to thrive.

Corn is very susceptible to frost, so if a cold snap is on the way, make sure you cover your plants to prevent any damage. You can use row covers or a similar contraption to ensure your plants aren’t damaged by poor weather.

Corn doesn’t need much in the way of extra fertilizer, but it’s not a bad idea to apply blood meal or another kind of fertilizer (think compost or a diluted fish-based blend) to help feed the soil. This can help to replace lost nutrients and is especially beneficial when the corn stalks are about knee-high.

Some people believe that pruning corn plants will help enhance production of ears and sweet kernels. This is false, however, as removing side shoots can damage roots. They don’t harm production, and often removing them does more harm than good.

Unfortunately, corn is one of those vegetables that is extremely susceptible to pests. Cutworms are one of the most common insects to affect the growth of your corn, and they usually attack young corn seedlings. Flea beetles are also common, and may cause extensive damage to the leaves of your young plants.

When your corn plants have matured, you may find that you have a problem with corn earworms. To help prevent them, try not to plant your corn near tomatoes, which corn earworms are naturally drawn to.

These pests feed on the tips of developing ears, and can cause extensive damage. Once the pests have begun to affect your plants, you can use an eyedropper to apply Bacillus thuringiensis, water, dishwashing liquid, and vegetable oil. This will help eliminate the pests without harming your plants.

Other common pests to affect corn plants include cucumber beetle larvae, European corn borers, and seed corn maggots. Keep in mind that insect pests aren’t the only types of creatures that can harm your plants – mammalian pests can also wreak havoc on your crop.

Raccoons, birds, and squirrels may all choose to nibble on your hard-earned harvest. They can often only be prevented by installing fencing or netting to keep them out of the garden altogether.

In terms of diseases, corn is relatively resilient. This is particularly true of hybrid varieties. Rotating your crops and engaging in clean garden practices can also help guard your plants against disease.

If you find plants that are infected with some kind of disease, like Stewart’s wilt, a common bacterial disease, your best bet is to destroy the affected plants to keep it from spreading.

Pollinating Corn

Corn is unique in that it can be a bit more challenging to pollinate. In order for your plants to produce kernels, the wind must move pollen from the tassels onto the silks that encase the ears. While this is typically a process that can be carried out on its own, you may need to transfer pollen on your own.

Keep in mind that corn is susceptible to cross-pollination. You should keep different corn cultivars, particularly those that are hybrid or supersweet varieties, at least 400 or so yards apart.

If you don’t do this, you can also plant them in succession, which will mean that they produce tassels at different times. This will prevent genetics from one type of plant from being spread to another.

Promote adequate pollination by planting in blocks instead of rows. Blocks should contain three rows. If you don’t have the space or garden capacity to do this, you will likely need to hand-pollinate.

How to Harvest Corn

You’ll know your corn is just about ready for harvest when silks appear on the ears. After three weeks, the ears should be ready. You should begin checking them for ripeness as soon as the silks appear. To do this, simply pull back a small portion of the husk and stab a kernel with your nail. If liquid comes out, the eras are ready to go.

While all of your ears will likely not be ready for harvest at the same time, those growing on the same plant will always ripen all at once. If you notice that any of your silks are completely dried out or a yellow or green color, they may be past their prime.

The only exception to this is in ornamental or popping corn. If you are growing these varieties, you will want to leave them on the stalks to dry until the first frost. This will allow them to harden and be preserved for an extended period of time.

Preserving Corn

Preserving corn allows you to enjoy the flavors of summer all the way into late winter. There are several ways you can preserve corn, but keep in mind that it can last for several weeks if refrigerated and not preserved in any other way.

There are several other good ways to hang on to the delicious flavors of corn. Whatever you choose to do, you should always clean and blanch your corn before beginning the preservation process.

Blanching helps your vegetables stay fresher for longer, and can be done by placing your corn in boiling water for about seven to eight minutes. Cool the ears in ice water and allow them to dry before cutting off kernels or continuing with your preservation.

Canning corn is a great option for slightly immature corn, as it tends to brown during canning. You don’t need to blanch for this method of preservation, as you will be using a pressure canner which will cook the corn as it cans it.

You can fit about four and a half pounds of corn per quart, but make sure you only select ears with fully mature kernels. If so desired, you can also pickle corn, which will allow you to can it using a simpler, easier-to-use water bath canner.

Many people also freeze corn. You can freeze any variety of mature corn, just remember to blanch it first. When stored in freezer-safe packaging, you can store frozen corn (ideally, cut off the cob) for up to a year before it begins to lose its freshness.

Once you’ve grown, harvested, and preserved it, there are so many ways to consume corn. Eat it fresh off the cob, or use it atop a salad. Creamed corn, corn fritters, and corn casserole, as well as dozens of soups and salsas are also fantastic uses for corn.

No matter how you choose to eat it, corn is a fantastic crop that should be included in every gardener’s plot – no matter how big or small it may be.

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A member of the cabbage family, kale is a cool-season green that grows well in the spring and fall months. It is resilient to fall frosts and is easy to grow in most areas. By incorporating these easy-to-follow tips, you’ll be serving up a bountiful harvest of this delicious superfood throughout the entire year.

Health Benefits of Kale

Any kind of green is good for you, but kale reigns champion when it comes to its nutritious goodness. This plant is packed to the brim with beneficial compounds, many of which have medicinal properties and can enhance your overall health – all while adding a boost of flavor to your meals.

Often considered a superfood, kale is a cruciferous vegetable that has more nutrients than almost any other kind of food. A cup of kale contains twice the amount of Vitamin A you need in your daily diet, along with nearly seven hundred times the Vitamin K necessary. It is also packed with Vitamin C, manganese, copper, calcium, potassium, magnesium, beta-carotene, thiamin, vitamins B2 and B3, riboflavin, iron, and phosphorous.

For all of this, kale has only about thirty-three calories and six grams of carbohydrates (a third of which come from fiber). There is very little fat in kale, but what it does have is a healthy omega-3 fatty acid called alpha linolenic-acid.

It also contains beneficial flavonoids kaempferol and quercetin. These substances are powerful antioxidants, working to lower your blood pressure and prevent viruses, depression, cancer, and more.

Kale can help lower your cholesterol and fight off colds. It also contains a good deal of calcium, which is important for bone health and vital cellular functions. It can even help you lose weight and protect your ocular health.

Long story short, kale is a tasty food that should be part of everybody’s healthy diet. If you aren’t already growing kale in your backyard garden, you need to start – your body will thank you.

Types of Kale

There’s no arguing that kale is delicious and easy to incorporate into your daily diet, but when it comes to planting it, there can be some confusion over what kind you should grow. Luckily, all kinds of kale are tasty and can be incorporated in your diet, but they each have slightly different culinary purposes.

Common kale is the type most often found at the grocery store. A pale green, it has large, frilly leaves and long stems. This kind of kale grows as a loose head but is sometimes sold as loose leaves. You can use it in soup, smoothie, salad, or even saute it.

Lacinato kale, also referred to as Tuscan or Dinosaur kale, produces dark, blue-green leaves that don’t have the curls common in other kinds of kales. Instead, as it grows it looks a bit more like cabbage. This kind of kale gets its name from its puckered, dimpled leaves that look not unlike dinosaur skin. It is great for using in soups, pasta, and stews, but could also be used in salad.

Red Russian kale is ideal for growing in cold weather, which intensifies its flavor. It tends to be a bit sweeter and more tender than other kinds of kale, and produces blue-green or purplish red leaves. It looks pretty and can be eaten in salads and other dishes.

Chinese kale, on the other hand, is more like broccoli. It can be substituted for broccoli in most recipes in a pinch, and it’s exceptionally high in vitamins A and C along with iron and calcium.

Siberian kale is one of the most cold-hardy types of kale available (hence the name). It has large leaves and is resilient to low temperatures and pests alike, making it a good choice as a winter crop in the United States.

It tastes better cooked, ideally sauteed or steamed. Redbor kale is the perfect choice for an ornamental garden. This kind of kale produces three-foot-tall leaves that are purple and curly. It can thrive in cold weather, growing a more vibrant shade of purple as the temperatures drop.

Ornamental kale (see above), commonly referred to as Salad Savoy, is another decorative type of kale that has a place on any dinner table. It isn’t terribly tasty, as its leaves are somewhat coarse, but it adds color and texture and can make a lovely garnish. It grows in colors ranging from white to pink to purple, and a little bit goes a long way in making a statement.

Preparing the Soil for Kale

Kale grows best when planted early in the spring. If it lives through the summer months, it may become bitter when hit by intense summer heat. You can keep the plants cool by mulching around them and providing them with ample watering. This will protect the leaves and roots, keeping the plant cool and thriving until you reach the cooler fall months.

Kale loves nutrient-dense soil. Mix about two cups of fertilizer for every 25 or 30 feet of row, blending it into the top three or four inches of soil. If you prefer, you can also spread organic compost or aged manure a few months before planting. This will allow it to leach naturally into the soil so that you don’t need to worry about tilling it.

You can also work materials like cottonseed meal or blood meal into your soil if you are lacking in a specific nutrient. The soil pH should be roughly 6.5 to 6.8 to discourage pests and diseases. If weeds are a concern, mulching before you get ready to plant will help prepare the soil for weed-free planting, too. Kale also grows just fine in raised beds or containers.

Select a site that is filled with light, rich soil. Kale grows best in full sun, but can also tolerate partial shade. Kale that receives fewer than six or seven hours of daily sun won’t be quite as vivacious and leafy as those that receive full sun throughout the day, but they will still be plenty edible.

The more important factor is that you make sure the soil is nice and fertile so that your kale plants grow quickly and productively.

If you are interested in companion planting, consider planting kale near plants like celery, cucumbers, herbs, onions, spinach, chard, potatoes, or beets. It should not be grown near beans, tomatoes, or strawberries, which can affect its susceptibility to pests and diseases and also affect the flavor of nearby crops.

Planting Kale

Kale can technically be planted at any time from early spring to early summer. Just remember that planting in the summer can lead to a more bitter-tasting plant. You can also wait to plant kale until late in the summer, which will allow you to harvest crops all the way into the fall, until the ground freezes solid.

If you are planting kale by seed, spread them about a quarter to a half an inch deep into well-drained soil. You can thin seedlings after two weeks, making sure they are spaced eight to twelve inches apart – kale does not like to be crowded.

You can start seeds for kale indoors, too. You should do this in the late winter months so that the seeds have time to germinate before the plants are moved outside. You will need soil temperatures between 55 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit (that’s between 12 and 23 Celsius).

If you prefer to plant in the fall, start your seeds in July. Seeds are ready to be transplanted when they have three or four leaves and the daytime temperatures are around fifty degrees Fahrenheit. If you prefer, you can plant your kale plants in two-week intervals so that you have a staggered harvest.

Kale is one of the few leafy greens that can be started as a seedling in the garden. If you choose to do this, set out your plants in the spring, usually three to five weeks before the last frost. If you are planting in late summer, go ahead and plant about seven weeks before the first frost in the fall.

Set plants at the depth in which they were growing in their containers. Space the plants about eighteen to twenty-four inches apart – the further apart they grow, the bigger the leaves they will produce.

Tending to Your Kale Crop

After you have planted, you need to make sure you water and fertilize regularly. You must be patient, as spring-planted kale will grow slowly until soil temperatures have warmed enough to trigger intense growth.

On the flip side, if you plant n the summer or early fall, your kale’s growth may be stunted until temperatures cool slightly. Once it hits proper temperatures, however, you’ll likely be overwhelmed by how much kale you have all at once!

Water kale regularly, providing about an inch to an inch of half of water per week. Installing soaker hoses or drip irrigation systems is a good idea, as is mulching. Use a compost, hay, straw, pine needles, or bark to help hold in moisture and keep the soil cool. This will also help to repel weeds and keep the leaves free of dirt for when you are ready to harvest.

Kale is a heavy feeder. You should provide plenty of nitrogen during their growth so that they can develop optimally. Apply fertilizer when you thin your seedlings, and consider adding compost tea every few weeks during their growth.

When you weed, remember that kale has very shallow roots. It is easy to accidentally pull up your plants when you’re tugging at a stubborn weed. Adding mulch can help conserve soil and limit weeds, making it easier to remove the occasional unwanted and encroaching plant.

Kale is an easy crop to care for, but there are several pests to which kale is prone. Cabbage worms are some of the most damage-inflicting. These pests chew holes in kale leaves, and appear later in life as white butterflies. They are more likely to munch on other brassicas, like cauliflower, broccoli, and cabbage, but if you fail to rotate your crops or grow kale in close proximity to these other plants, you may have issues with cabbage worms.

Harlequin bugs are also common on kale plants, particularly those that are beginning to age. Harlequins are black-and-orange and can provide the final kiss of death to your plants.

In most cases, it’s easiest just to pull up the old plants and compost them, particularly as this is the time that kale begins to decline in production and taste, anyway. If your plants are otherwise still thriving, consider covering them with row covers or lightweight fabric until the pest populations drop in the fall.

Cabbage aphids are another common pest. These usually gather in clusters, affecting the leaves and folds of kale plants. You can treat outbreaks with insecticidal soap, or cut off the affected leaves to prevent them from spreading to your healthy pieces.

It is not likely that your kale plants will develop disease. However, those that do arise generally do so as a result of insufficient watering – or overwatering. Black spot is the most common disease. This disease produces spots on the leaves of kale and kale-like plants (such as collards).

Caused by fungi, this disease is not harmful to humans but can damage your kale and surrounding plants. Remove the affected leaves and be sure to monitor the amounts of water your kale plants are receiving.

Harvesting Kale

You can harvest kale as soon as the leaves are large enough to eat -generally, this is when they are roughly the size of your hand. Allow the center leaves to continue growing and instead harvest larger, outside kale leaves first. This way, you will be able to enjoy a continuous harvest throughout the year.

When you regularly harvest your kale plant, you will be rewarded with plants that produce new, tasty leaves for several months at a time. Their growth is really only determined by the weather – as long as it stays cool, you will be in a good supply of kale.

You can even harvest kale after the first frost. Cool temperatures cause the carbohydrates in the leaves to turn to sugar, meaning they will taste even better after they’ve been hit with cold weather. Just keep in mind that when the weather is truly freezing, you will want to harvest your kale leaves before they stiffen and wilt.

To harvest, cut leaves one by one using garden scissors or even a knife. You can also cut away the whole head, but new leaves will not grow as they would if you had simply cut a few leaves at a time.

If you notice that your plants are developing yellow leaves, make sure you remove them more often. Yellowed or holey leaves are a sign that you are not harvesting your leaves quickly enough. Kale is a perennial crop, meaning it will thrive for multiple years when cared for correctly. Good harvesting practices are paramount in getting your kale to last for several years on ned.

Generally, kale is ready for harvest about 55 to 75 days after it has been sowed from seed. It can survive in areas where winters are cold, even living to temperatures down to 14 degrees Fahrenheit. If you receive colder temperatures and a hard freeze, you can keep kale alive and thriving under row covers or within cold frames. Just make sure the leaves are covered during sub-freezing temperatures.

Storing and Preserving Kale

After harvesting your kale, make sure you wash the leaves well with a steady stream of water. Kale tends to accumulate dirt and other debris as it bounces up onto the leaves during watering, so a thorough rinsing is essential.

Kale can store for two or three weeks in your refrigerator, provided that the leaves are kept moist. You might consider wrapping the leaves in a damp paper towel and then keeping them in a perforated bag in the vegetable crisper. This will prevent your leaves from drying out, while also providing essential airflow.

There are multiple ways you can preserve kale if you find you have a bumper crop. Perhaps the easiest way to do so is to freeze it. Select only young, tender leaves, and wash them thoroughly. Cut off the woody stems, and then blanch them for about two minutes. Let them cool and then package them in freezer bags, leaving about an inch of headspace.

Kale can also be pressure canned. You will need about 28 pounds of greens for a canner load of seven quarts – this equates to about eighteen pounds for nine pints. Can only freshly harvested greens, discarding any woody or bitter-looking pieces.

You will use hot pack procedure, placing about a pound of greens at a time in blancher basket. Steam the greens for about four minutes and add a teaspoon of salt to each jar. Jars should be processed at eleven pounds of pressure for seventy to ninety minutes.

You can even dehydrate kale. Again, use only young, tender leaves, and be sure to wash them thoroughly. You should blanch the greens before dehydrating to remove excess water. After blanching, dip them in cold water to stop the cooking action, and let the greens cool to about 120 degrees. Put them on the dehydrator racks and let them dry for about eight to ten hours. You will be rewarded with tasty, crunchy kale chips.

Uses for Kale

There are countless uses for kale, providing you with great versatility and options for including it in your daily diet. You can make a super-healthy salad with kale, using it to replace romaine or iceberg lettuce. It does not wilt easily, making it a good choice for a potluck lunch.

You can also blanch the leaves of kale and toss it with grains or pasta. This makes a tasty side dish or vegetarian meal. You can grill it for a summertime staple, or even bake the leaves into kale chips that you can then serve with a dip.

Many people also use kale as a pizza topping. It tastes great with parmesan cheese. Add kale to a Tuscan- or Mexican- inspired dish, or serve it in a breakfast casserole, hash, stuffing, or soup. The opportunities are virtually endless.

Wrap-Up

No matter how you choose to incorporate kale in your daily diet, it will be much easier to do so if you are already growing it in your backyard garden. Easy to grow and even easier to harvest and preserve, kale is a superfood that should be on every gardener’s bucket list.

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