Drinks and Beverages

Store-bought vegetables can add a significant amount of flavor, color and texture to pre-packaged food or family meals. But there are several reasons why you may want to re-consider reaching for that next tomato, broccoli crown, or head of lettuce.

At a glance, the presentation of veggies at the store is appealing. Colors are often vibrant and some stores have display racks that give the feel of a farmers market. So why bother with a weekly farmers market in your area or sewing your own garden vegetables?

The Inconvenient Truth of Convenience

Convenient shopping has been a mainstay for many people since grocery stores became popular in the mid-50s across the United States. People in northern states could enjoy fruits and vegetables that would otherwise be out of season or impossible to obtain depending on the planting zone.

People in southern states had access to some of the winter-hearty fruits or vegetables that rarely produced down south. But with the passage of time and increased demand, the supply chains began to struggle. Small, local farms were ousted in favor of larger production facilities. Quality control went from the farmers hand to the hand of an unskilled laborer or inspector along the production line. To the consumer, convenience became the new expectation.

Few people realize how an avocado, an orange, or a brussels sprout winds up in their super market in mid-winter as fresh as it was just hand-picked. As long as it’s there, there’s no reason to care. Instead of farm to table, It’s farm to workhand or machine, to production facility, to packaging warehouse, to trucking company, to massive distribution warehouse, to shopping center, to stockroom and finally to the shelf.

Now, by the time produce hits the stand, it has been handled by dozens of people – not including those who pick and inspect each item before putting it back on the display. Mothers who just wiped their children’s’ faces.

Fathers who just left work with dirt beneath their nails. Health-conscious foodies who pluck and prune and sort through each piece looking for the best one. The person who didn’t wash his or her hands before leaving the restroom.

This supply chain poses a serious health and safety risk to consumers on an everyday basis.

Poor Handling Leads to Outbreaks

In 2018, the FDA had reported a 300 percent increase in cases of food borne outbreaks across the United States compared outbreaks in 2017. Cases in 2018 included 10 outbreaks of Salmonella, 3 E-coli outbreaks, 2 outbreaks of Cyclospora and one outbreak each involving crab meat from Venezuela, raw oysters from Canada, and a B. cepacian Complex linked to a no-rinse cleansing foam typically used in medical facilities. (CDC Outbreaks)

Of the 18 outbreaks last year, 7 were related to produce mishandling. That’s nearly half. Remember the big romaine recall? A total of 511 recorded cases of Cyclospora were documented from the Fresh Express salad mixes available at McDonalds locations across the country. E-coli in leafy greens? Salmonella in sprouts? You bet. (CDC Recalls)

Poor sanitation is the main cause of recalls according to the CDC. While many of these outbreaks could have been prevented through proper hygiene and food washing, the threefold increase in outbreaks demonstrates a lack of quality control when transferring or handling produce. The best way to prevent infection is by following proper hygiene even if your produce appears clean. (CDC Guidance Food Handling Safety Canadian Version)

Typically, consumers are led to believe that packaged food is clean. “Organic,” “All-Natural” and “Pre-Washed” are terms that convey foods are safer to eat. This is not always the case. It’s even farther from the truth when it comes to produce.

Year over year, regardless of the controls in place for safe food handling and training, produce has been the cause of some form of outbreak at least once per year for the past 8 years according to FDA outbreak data. It’s not a matter of if an outbreak will happen – but when. And there’s no telling how severe or widespread the next outbreak will be, or what kind of fruit or vegetable will be the culprit.

Behind the Veil of Not-So-Super Markets

Each year, recalls and outbreaks from food-borne illness amount to millions of dollars of lost profit, wasted production and consumer health risk. At the heart of this risk is a false sense of convenience portrayed by grocers. So how do they recover from lost sales?

The short answer is you. At a glance, those bright colors coming from the produce section are stunning. Greens, reds, yellows and more. But when you take that tomato home – and wash it – you may find the taste less than appealing. Bland at best. It’s confusing because it looked so good on the shelf, right?

The lighting, the layout, the light misters along the wall – all of it is designed to make a sale. Look again. Those perfectly ripe tomatoes are a little too perfect. Same with the uniform carrots, broccoli, celery and on and on. You may enter to buy a product, but you are sold something that could be vastly different, genetically modified, and far from fresh.

Behind That Perfect Shine

If you intended to buy an apple at the store 50 years ago, you would have only two months to have access to apples on the shelves. Now, apples are available year-round. As an example, apples are often harvested in the months of September and August, then washed, processed, waxed, and kept in cold storage for 12-14 months. But this is only one fruit. Many fruits and vegetables undergo similar chemical processing to keep them looking fresh despite their harvest date or origin.

You’re not just buying an apple at the store any more. You’re likely buying an apple and all the chemicals along the way. As the old adage goes “If you can’t pronounce it, don’t eat it.” One apple isn’t just an ordinary apple – it comes with the likely possibility of having been cleaned, treated or preserved with any one of these following FDA-approved chemicals:

Source: FDA Approved List of Additives and Chemicals

Many of these chemicals help to remove the harmful, often carcinogenic or otherwise toxic, properties related to spray-applied pesticides, parasites and bacteria. Some are designed to remain on produce to enhance the appearance and help to retain a longer shelf life.

However, some of these chemicals have been linked to reproductive problems, cancers and other negative long-term health effects. And sometimes, even their protective features still don’t fix some problems that lurk on the surface.

Microscopic Terror

Thirty years ago, attempts to improve the look and appeal of produce turned deadly. An outbreak of Legionnaires Disease in Louisiana was linked to a set of misters used to spray produce. Bystanders who got close enough to misters were affected by inhaling the mists and the outbreak infected 33 people in less than a month. Two people died from pneumonia during the outbreak (LD-CDC).

While steps have been taken to prevent a similar outbreak, new methods of produce production have their own problems. Advancements in genetic modifications, antibiotics and farming practices has helped to create an ample supply of consistent, predictable food.

But a side effect of these advancements are bacteria with stronger resistance to antimicrobial chemicals. This means that the produce you think you are getting can actually be more harmful than the average person realizes.

On average, 410,000 Americans are treated annually as a result of infections from resistant bacteria tied to food borne illnesses like Salmonella and Campylobacter (CDC). Some produce studies have found that your top shelf produce pick may as well have been on a shelf in the bathroom or rolling on the floor because of how much bacteria is present on the surface.

Sowing for Survival

Ultimately, when it comes to produce, it’s best to consider the source.

You may go to your local grocery store to get your produce, but before it even hits the shelf it has been handled, processed, treated by any number of hands, holding patterns and chemicals. Your best defense is to approach your own yard with a new perspective. With even limited space, you can produce many of the fruits and vegetables you’d normally pick through in the produce aisle. And if you can’t, you’ll likely find yourself approaching that vegetable that is out of season in your area with a different perspective.

Anyone who has tilled his own soil can testify that carrots aren’t uniform, and that broccoli heads come in all different sizes. More importantly, he’ll recognize a ripe tomato on the vine and know to capture it before the wildlife does. But those windows of opportunity are limited and demonstrate how fragile truly organic produce can be.

So when the average person walks into a supermarket and sees a world of uniform produce, glowing and waxy with beads of water on the surface, the question of convenience is irrelevant. Rather, he should ask: How is it that an apple can be 12-14 months old before it hits the shelf? How fresh is a cantaloupe in February? At what point will our demand for convenience destroy quality altogether?

By taking the future of food into your own hands, you can re-establish quality and share it with your family. Whether it starts as a planter pot or a garden plot, taking on a garden and tasting fresh produce that is actually fresh will change your life completely.

Sowing from seed does take work and practice, and it is rarely convenient. But if managed properly, you can have better tasting produce at your own hand that is much safer than the risk of consuming something handled by dozens of other people, dipped or sprayed by dozens of chemicals, and can still potentially harbor bacteria that has survived even the harshest of chemicals.

The post Here’s Why You Should Stay Away from Veggies from the Store appeared first on The Homesteading Hippy.

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Lavender is one of the most beloved backyard flowers, and for good reason. As an ornamental herb, it offers so many health and culinary benefits. Plus, it’s easy to grow. It requires minimal care and adds a splash of color to any location. If you’re thinking about growing lavender, consider this helpful guide to assist you in getting started.

Why You Should Grow Lavender

Lavender can be grown in most climates, from those with harsh winters to those with more mild weather. As a companion plant, lavender helps to repel annoying pests like mosquitoes, flies, and moths. You can distill it down into a repelling spray, or simply plant it in areas where you’d like to keep bugs away. It can even help combat fleas and ticks.

That being said, lavender is an excellent attractant for beneficial pollinators like butterflies and honeybees. Because honeybees are in decline, growing lavender is a great way to help encourage growing populations of pollinators that can help your garden thrive.

This plant blooms throughout the summer months and can be pruned each fall to encourage new growth in the following year. As a popular border or walkway plant, as well as an excellent indoor option, lavender should be at the top of your list of plants to grow this spring.

Health Benefits of Lavender

Lavender has been used by generations of homesteaders as a natural medicinal plant. Because it has a pleasant, relaxing scent, it is often used as a sleep aid and a treatment for issues like anxiety, moodiness and depression. It is also anti-inflammatory, making it a good option for treating cuts, burns, bug bites, and other wounds. You can use it in a homemade salve for use as an antiseptic, or create a lavender-infused oil to help heal whatever it is that ails you.

Lavender is commonly used in skin care items like bath salts and lotions because of its delightful scent, and it’s something you should always have on hand around the house. Because it is antibacterial as well as antiseptic, it can be used in homemade laundry soap, cleaning wipes, or other solutions.

Varieties of Lavender

There are dozens of types of lavender to choose from when planting your garden. Some of the most popular are Grosso, Provence, English, and French. Ideally, you should plant a wide variety of lavender to help scent your home and garden. This will provide you with a continual bloom of the richly-hued plant.

English lavender is one of the most popular types of lavender. Native to the Mediterranean region, English lavender is one of the best at growing in a cooler climate (hence the name). It grows about two or three feet tall and forms mounds of plants. It is a popular choice for creating a low hedge as well as for use in culinary applications.

Within the English lavender variety, there are also several sub-categories. Hidcote English lavender has deep purple blossoms and grows shorter than other types, only reaching about a foot in height.

While it can be eaten, it is best used for edging garden beds or paths. Munstead English lavender, on the other hand, is more heat tolerant than other types of English lavender. It can hold up to drier, more challenging conditions, as can other heat-tolerant species like Grosso lavender, Portuguese spike lavender, and broadleaf lavender.

Provence lavender is another common type of lavender, grown commercially in Provence, France. It has fragrant flowers on long stems and is ideal for crafting and decorating. It is flexible and can be shaped into wreaths and other decorations.

French lavender, on the other hand, is the best type of lavender for landscaping. While it can only be grown in Zones 8 to 11, it has a powerful scent and flowers continuously in areas that experience mild winters. It is great for use in potpourri and other crafts requiring heavy fragrances and is less ideal for cooking.

Preparing Your Soil

Lavender prefers full sun and well-draining soil. Forming large bushes, it can be shaped into a hedge, so you will want to give it plenty of space to sprawl. When preparing to plant lavender, keep in mind that the soil and location of your planting site are the absolute most important factors in the ultimate success of your lavender plant.

Ideally, your soil should be highly fertile and well-draining. It should contain high levels of oxygen to improve root growth and the likelihood of plant survival. Consider adding coarse compost, mulch, or wood chips to the soil before planting to help increase the presence of beneficial microorganisms, and to make the soil more fertile and easier to work.

Something to note in planting lavender is that it cannot tolerate particularly salty soils. If you are amending your soil with an organic matter high in soluble salts, make sure you give it plenty of time to break down. Structure is more important to lavender growth than nutrient content, so if the soil is nice and light, you may not even need to add any fertilizer.

After you’ve planted, you might consider adding a layer of mulch. Wood chips are best, as this will help add more structure to the soil. The mulch will help reduce the destructive force of rain and wind, while also keeping the soil open and airy to allow oxygen to reach your lavender’s roots with ease. Avoid using landscape fabric or plastic when planting your lavender, as this can inhibit the flow of oxygen.

When you’re preparing to plant, wait for a dry day. Working the soil when it is wet will reduce the oxygen content of the soil, a factor to which lavender is particularly vulnerable. While you don’t need any particular kind of soil (it doesn’t matter whether it’s silty or sandy, for example), you want to make sure it’s not too dense. If you have clay soil, consider adding an amendment to help it filter water, oxygen, and nutrients more effectively.

Planting Lavender

Lavender likes alkaline soil, with a pH of 6.5 or higher. When you’re ready to plant, create a mound that is about 18 to 24 inches in height. Add some round stone to help add structure to the base where you will be planting.

Again, no fertilizer is needed, but if you are looking to add more structure, you may add compost. An equally mixed combination of bone meal, compost, and lime can help provide the nutrients necessary. Avoid the urge to over-fertilize, particularly with imbalanced synthetic fertilizers, as these can inhibit your lavender’s growth.

The best places to grow lavender are those that are hot, dry, and high in elevation to avoid water runoff. Consider planting your lavender in places that have good southwestern exposure, or on the sides of slopes or banks. You can also plant lavender along pools, sidewalks, or walls for a nice pop of color. Your plants will need at least six hours of full sun.

You can cultivate lavender as soon as the soil has warmed to above-freezing conditions. Try to avoid planting in July, August, December, and January. July and August tend to be much hotter, meaning you will need to water your lavender more frequently as it establishes its root systems. If you live in a warm area, you should avoid planting in these early winter months because the roots will be exposed to the air in too-cold temperatures.

Once you’ve mounded the soil in the area where you intend to plant, you are ready to get your lavender plants in the ground. Add your mixture of lime, bone meal, and compost to the hole you have prepared. This will allow the soil to drain while improving the pH and small amount of nutrients necessary for your lavender’s success.

When planting, put your lavender plants about six feet from each other. This will allow for good circulation. If you’re looking for a more dense, hedge-like appearance, you can place them slightly closer together. You can also plant lavender from seed, which is often easier as it eliminates the need to transplant and reduces the risk of harming the plant’s delicate roots.

Caring for Lavender Plants

Lavender prefers semi-arid conditions. If you live in a warmer area, consider using a light-colored, more reflective mulch. This will help retain moisture as needed while keeping the plant dried out.

Because lavender is a perennial herb, it will need to be covered with straw mulch until cold temperatures have passed. It does not like moist conditions between seasons, so it’s important to remember how wet the planting area gets not just during the growing season, but also between seasons to ensure your lavender’s success.

During the winter, lavender needs to be cared for if you plan to keep it alive. If you have your lavender in a pot, bring it inside or place it on the warmer side of the house to harbor it from cold winter winds. Consider wrapping it with a layer of burlap, and on nights below freezing, toss a blanket or tarp over it to protect it from frost.

You can prune the top of your lavender plant to ensure productivity between seasons. Only prune about once a year, and only remove about a third of the plant at the time. You should keep about two or three inches of green foliage, and never cut into the woody part of the plant.

When you prune, wait until the coldest part of winter to ensure the plant is dormant. In many places, this is in February. Green foliage will likely appear in April, but this will vary depending on winter weather. Lavender peaks in its third year, with each plant producing upwards of 1000 stems. Don’t be surprised if your production drops off slightly after this time.

Otherwise, are for your lavender plant just as you would any other perennial. You should water deeply, about an inch of rainfall per week. They may require may water to get established, but once they are fully rooted, you can allow your lavender to dry out between waterings. For the first two years of growth, lavender should be watered every seven to ten days.

After your lavender has developed strong roots, it will be incredibly heat- and drought-tolerant. You shouldn’t need to water unless there is a prolonged drought, and overwatering can be detrimental, as it leads to fungal diseases like root rot. Instead of constantly fighting the urge to overwater, mulch your plants instead. Light-colored mulches are best, helping to reflect light, keep the plants adequately hydrated, and preventing diseases and other pests.

Lavender is actually quite sensitive to too much moisture. In many humid southern gardens, too much moisture can cause gray foliage and dying leaves. This can be combated by pruning the plant in February and improving the drainage around your plant. By pruning once a year and making sure your plants are mulched appropriately, you should be able to avoid any problems.

Growing Lavender Indoors

If your soil conditions or climate are just not conducive to growing lavender directly in the ground, you can also plant it in a raised bed or inside your home. Planting in a raised bed reduces the chance of erosion and runoff, allowing your plants to thrive without being hampered by too much water, too little water, or diseases like root rot.

If you are planting your lavender in a container or inside your home, remember that the temperature of the pot will always be roughly fifteen degrees colder than if it were planted in the garden. You may need to bring your outdoor containers inside or cover them when the temperatures drop. Lavender does grow best in an outdoor setting, where it has ample access to sunlight and warmth – remember, it’s native to the Mediterranean! However, it can be grown successfully indoors as long as you remember a few simple tips and tricks.

When planting in a container, make sure you look up the mature diameter of the lavender and choose an appropriately-sized pot. Lavender is tough to transplant, and you likely won’t need to divide it out as it gets larger. That being said, lavender has shallow roots, so while it needs to be at least eight to ten inches in diameter, it doesn’t need to be particularly tall. Instead of focusing on the height of your container, make sure you select one that is well-draining.

If you are growing lavender in a container, you will need to water it more frequently, particularly in the heat of the summer. In some cases, you may need to water once a day. Lavender requires significant amounts of sunlight, so if you’re growing it inside, be prepared to place it in a location that receives at least six to eight hours of sunlight per day – otherwise, it needs to be moved outdoors.

Harvesting Lavender

Each variety of lavender will be ready for harvest at different times, as it grows at different rates and has different harvest times depending on the zone you are in. However, most varieties can be harvested anytime between early May and late July. Lavender often blooms an additional time in the fall, and while this second onslaught of color typically isn’t as vivacious, you can definitely reap a second harvest from this bloom.

Lavender is ready to harvest when the bottom flowers are just opening. Cut the stems down to the foliage, gathering about a hundred stems together before hooking them together with a piece of twine or a rubber band. You can turn them upside down or hang them from the ceiling to help them dry. Place the bundles in an out-of-the-way, dry location like an attic or closet, allowing them to dry for up to two weeks.

Storing Lavender

To keep fresh lavender in the house, treat it just as you would other cut flowers – except you don’t need to put it in water. Water causes the stems to become soggy and rancid, and the flowers will fall off more quickly. Instead, just place the stems in a vase and enjoy. They will dry out on their own, meaning you can then use them for other purposes as well.

To preserve your lavender for long term use, place the flowers away from direct sunlight. The petals will dry to a grayish purple color and will fall off once dried. You can then use the petals for tea, culinary recipes, potpourri, and crafting.

Uses for Lavender

In addition to acting as a natural repellent and all-around garden booster, lavender has multiple culinary uses. It can be used in a variety of dessert recipes, such as those requiring the use of lavender-infused sugars, honeys, jams, or jellies.

You can even make lavender whipped cream or use it as a garnish. It is particularly tasty when combined with citrus flavors, providing delicious undertones that will really make your cooking pop. Lavender is commonly used in lemonades, too, playing again off that nice citrusy pairing. Many people prefer to dry lavender, using it in teas or as a simple syrup in cocktail recipes.

No matter how you choose to use your lavender, growing just one or two plants can provide you with a wealth of culinary, medicinal, and decorative uses. This miracle herb is a great option for growing in a flowerbed or even as a semi-wild plant in your backyard. Consider adding it to your backyard collection this spring for a pop of color and a lasting, pleasant aroma throughout the season.

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It’s winter on the homestead and we’ve had plenty of snow this year. The cow has dried up but years ago my grandmother taught us to freeze milk when we had an abundance. However, I’m going to need my freezer space soon and must use up the milk that is taking up space or lose it.

My friend asked me if I’d ever “dehydrated” the milk. I had to reply that I’d never tried it, but, that got me to thinking, I have 2 excellent dehydrators and about 4 gallons of frozen milk taking up space in my freezer. What better way to test out the options? So, I set to work.

To begin with, I pulled out one gallon of the milk from the freezer and began to allow it to thaw in the refrigerator (I don’t have room for 4 gallons of milk in the refrigerator so will have to thaw it out one gallon at a time).

I figured it will take one to two days for the milk to thaw out in the refrigerator. I chose not to thaw it at room temperature because if it thaws too fast it could wind up spoiling and then I’d have to dehydrate sour milk. I prefer that it’s not sour when I dehydrate it.

Of course I know that powdered milk from the store isn’t as good and tasty as fresh milk, I’m hopeful that by making it myself it will still be delicious enough for my family to enjoy. I know that dehydrating milk isn’t nearly as common as freezing or canning fresh milk, but I’m hopeful that it will save some space in our freezer and pantry by doing it this way.

Here are the steps that I took to dehydrate our milk so that I would have “powdered milk” here on our homestead.

Preparing Your Milk For Dehydrating

Step One

Thaw milk in the refrigerator. It’s important to not leave the milk sitting out on the counter as it could easily spoil. It will typically take one to two days to thaw out in the refrigerator. Meanwhile, you can skip down to “Preparing Your Dehydrator for Dehydrating Milk”.

Step Two

I skimmed the cream off our our milk as we use the cream in cooking and coffee in the morning. We also use the cream to make homemade butter so after the milk thawed I poured it in to a large glass pitcher that we have and I allowed the milk to sit in the refrigerator another day in order to skim the cream off of the milk. I set the cream aside in another container and put that in the refrigerator to make butter or use in our coffee.

Step Three

Scalding milk kills off any enzymes or bacteria that can spoil the milk. To scald milk, simply place milk into a saucepan and bring it just to a boil. Don’t let it get to a hard boil. Just heat it up and stop the heat action as soon as the milk reaches a boiling point. The milk should reach an internal temperature of 180 degrees Fahrenheit.

Use a candy thermometer to check the temperature. Make sure that your candy thermometer doesn’t touch the bottom of the pan at any time as it will throw off the actual temperature of the product. If you accidentally turn your head and the milk exceeds 212 degrees Fahrenheit, you’re going to have to start over with a fresh batch of milk. Milk that is heated to 212 degrees Fahrenheit or higher will curdle and that is a huge mess.

Scalded milk should “coat” the pan. When you tilt the pan to the side and then put the pan back to the upright position, there should be a thin coating of milk on the inside of the pan where the scalded milk touched. If there is not a thin coating of milk, continue heating the milk until it thinly coats the pan when you tilt the pan. After scalding milk, I again placed our milk into the refrigerator to cool it before pouring it onto our dehydrator trays.

Tips On Scalding Milk

I can remember as a young child my mother “scalding” milk for a recipe. I was too young to really care, but, apparently when scalding milk for a recipe it will make the baked goods bake up fluffier. It must have worked because my mothers pancakes and biscuits were always nice and fluffy. Although the purpose of scalding milk before dehydrating it is to kill off bacteria or enzymes that may spoil the milk, it’s the same process. I called my mother to verify that I had all of these steps correct before I began my project.

• Use a heavy pan for your scalding process.
• It should only take about 4 to 6 minutes to scald milk.
• Don’t allow the milk to boil when you scald.
• Stir your milk with a wooden spoon or a wooden spatula while you’re scalding it.
• Don’t allow your candy thermometer to touch the bottom of the pan.
• Stay with the milk through the entire process, don’t walk away from the milk.
• Use a medium heat to scald milk.
• When the milk has been properly scalded remove it from the heat immediately.
• Allow your milk to cool at room temperature or place it in the refrigerator for a few minutes.

Preparing Your Dehydrator For Dehydrating Milk

Step One

Clean and sanitize your dehydrator. All too often we dehydrate something and then just put the dehydrator away. However, when you’re dehydrating milk you don’t want any off tastes that may have been left over from making jerky or any other dehydrated products.

Wipe your dehydrator out and make sure that you wash and sanitize the trays. I just used warm soapy water to clean the trays and rinsed them well. I then allowed them to air dry.

Step Two

If your dehydrator doesn’t come with silicone mats, you can make your own by simply purchasing some silicone baking sheets or a silicone cutting board. Cut them to fit your dehydrator trays. You’ll need one of these for each tray that you plan to use in your dehydrating milk process. You could also purchase fruit roll sheets for your dehydrator if you don’t wish to make them. Since we’re trying to save money I make as many things as possible on our homestead.

Step Three

After preparing my dehydrator I placed my silicone mats on each of my dehydrator trays into my dehydrator. I loaded my trays into the dehydrator and then I poured 1 cup of milk into the center of the silicone mats on my dehydrator trays.

I deliberately placed the trays into the dehydrator prior to pouring the milk so that I wouldn’t spill any of the milk during the process of moving the trays. This way, all I had to do was slide my trays back into the dehydrator.

Step Four

I set my dehydrator temperature to 135 degrees Fahrenheit and turned on my dehydrator. The directions stated to allow the milk to dehydrate for up to 12 hours or until the milk is dry and flaky. I checked on the progress of our milk after about 4 hours and it was pretty gooey but starting to dry out on the sides of the “puddle” of milk that I had poured into the dehydrator.

I continued to check the progress of the milk every few hours until it was a dry flaky “saucer”. I turned it over several times to ensure that it was completely dry throughout the entire “puddle”.

Oven Method

You can also make your dehydrated milk in the oven if you don’t have a dehydrator. Here are the directions for the oven method. I’ve not tried this myself, but my great aunt told me how to do this when I was talking to her about it. She said they used to use their oven (or the sun, which isn’t recommended at all for this type of dehydrating project as the milk could spoil too easily) all the time for dehydrating herbs and very thinly sliced vegetables and she had used the oven method for dehydrating milk a time or two.

Step One

Pour milk into the top pan of a double boiler. Make sure that the water in the bottom pan of the double boiler is boiling. You’ll also want to monitor the water in the bottom pan so that your double boiler doesn’t boil dry.

Step Two

Allow the milk to simmer until most of the water has been evaporated. This will leave the milk with a thick and very creamy consistency. Be patient as it may take several hours for the milk to become thick and creamy. Allow it to become as thick as possible to make using the oven as your dehydrator easier.

Step Three

Pour the milk into an oven safe pan (my great aunt said that they used a 13X9 cake pan for this project). Using a pan with sides makes it easier to dehydrate the milk in the oven and you won’t have to line the pan that way. Just make sure that you can lift the dehydrated milk up out of the pan with your spatula when you are done. A non stick pan would be the best option for this. Also, you may wish to loosen the milk from the bottom of the pan as soon as it begins to solidify, that way you can turn it over frequently so that it dries evenly.

Step Four

Preheat the oven to 150 degrees Fahrenheit

Step Five

Place your cake pan into the oven and allow the door to remain slightly open so that the moisture can escape. This step is very important, if the moisture can’t escape your milk isn’t going to dehydrate properly.

Step Six

Allow the milk to dry for several hours, checking it often to ensure that it’s not sticking to the pan. Flip it over periodically to dry it evenly. Again, use a non stick type pan for easier removal from the pan.

Step Seven

My great aunt told me that they would then put the dried milk into their mortar and pestle or later, when grandma bought a blender they would take it over to her house and use the blender to powder it. It was kept in a jar and used whenever milk would be used in a recipe or to drink.

Here’s what the end result powdered milk should looks like:

Reconstituting Your Powdered Milk

As a kid, I hated powdered milk. In fact, if I had even an inkling that my mother was trying to give me powdered milk, I’d wait until my mother wasn’t looking and I’d pour it out. I’m happy to say that dehydrating your own milk is far more delicious than the store bought version.

Maybe it’s because it doesn’t have all of those preservatives in it. Whatever the reason, drinking powdered milk that I made in our dehydrator was far more delicious than store bought powdered milk.

The directions on the store bought version of powdered milk are to mix 3 Tablespoons of powdered milk with 1 cup of cold water. I kept to this conversion with my home dehydrated version of powdered milk and it’s almost perfect. I add just a pinch or two more of the dehydrated milk powder to my glass of cold water because I prefer a richer flavor and it’s perfect.

Tips And Tricks

• Pour only one cup of milk on each dehydrator tray. This will make sure that you’re not having a thick “blob” of dehydrated milk that isn’t dehydrating evenly. If using the oven method, and the pan allows, you can several “puddles” in the pan just make sure that none of them are touching.

• Start small. I started this project using only 3 dehydrator trays.

• Make sure that your dehydrator is on an even surface when you’re dehydrating milk. While this may sound obvious, it’s easy to have your dehydrator slightly uneven and not realize it. With a liquid product, its very important that your dehydrator is on an even surface.

• It’s far easier to pour the milk onto the silicone trays when the trays are already in the dehydrator, that way, there is no risk of spilling the milk as you’re trying to place the trays back into or onto the dehydrator.

• Dehydrated milk should be completely dry. If not, flip it over and keep dehydrating it until it’s flaky and you can crumble it into a powder. If it’s not completely dry it may begin to mold or spoil. Some dehydrators are lower powered so it may take longer in some dehydrators than others. Be patient and don’t rush.

• You can place your dehydrated milk into a blender or food processor to make it into a powder if you prefer. Or you can place it into a zippered plastic bag and crumble it up into a powder there.

• Store dehydrated milk in a glass jar. Make sure that the jar is clean and sanitized and that there is no moisture in the jar when you place the dehydrated milk into the jar. Secure the lid tightly to ensure that no moisture enters into the jar.

• Make sure to date the jar of milk so that you’re using the oldest milk first. Always rotate your dehydrated products so that you’re using the freshest products possible.

How To Use Dehydrated Milk

In addition to simply making up a glass of milk, there are other great ways that we use dehydrated milk in and around our homestead. Here are a few of our favorites.

Homemade Sweetened Condensed Milk

This recipe is equivalent to the same sized can of sweetened condensed milk that you would buy at your local grocery store (and oh so much more delicious).

½ water

1 cup dehydrated milk powdered

1 cup white sugar

1 Tablespoon of butter (don’t skimp and use margarine or this recipe won’t work)

Simmer your water over a double boiler and slowly stir in the other ingredients. Continue stirring the mixture over medium heat in your double boiler and allow it to thicken to your desired consistency. Make sure you don’t stop stirring and keep in mind that it will burn your lips if you’re taste testing it and don’t cool it first. It takes approximately 15 to 20 minutes at our house to reach the right consistency.

Now that we’ve tried homemade sweetened condensed milk we don’t like the store bought version nearly as well. I now make this up in small batches every holiday season for baking and desserts.

Evaporated Milk

There are a lot of recipes out there that call for evaporated milk. It’s super simple to make this with your dehydrated milk. Simply mix 1 and ½ cups of water into ½ cup plus 1 teaspoon of your dehydrated milk. Use this to replace evaporated milk in any recipe and you’ll get great results.

Whipped Cream

Pour ½ cup of powdered milk into a deep bowl and mix it with ½ cup of white sugar sugar with a fork. Using a hand held mixer or a countertop mixer set to medium speed gradually add ½ cup of ice water into the powdered milk and the sugar. Keep mixing until the milk starts to form soft peaks and gradually add 2 Tablespoons of lemon juice into the creamy mix continuing to blend until it’s the desired consistency.

Use your homemade powdered milk in place of regular milk in any of your recipes and see if your family notices a difference. As long as my kids don’t walk in when I’m mixing up the milk they don’t notice it at all. Even my pickiest eaters haven’t noticed that they’re drinking powdered milk.

Health And Safety Concerns

Always make sure that all of the milk is completely dehydrated and flaky to ensure that no mold will develop. Also, make sure that the storage container is completely dry as even a tiny bit of moisture can affect the overall quality and allow mold to begin to develop.

Always use caution with a double boiler as it’s easy to burn yourself with the steam when checking the level of water when you lift the top pan out of the bottom pan.

This year, as our homestead has an abundance of milk, I think that I’ll try dehydrating fresh milk vs previously frozen milk and see how that works out. I’m anxious to try it on fresh milk and see if that has any effect on the taste.

We use our dehydrated milk in all of our baking recipes. I decided that if it’s for baked goods the dehydrated milk should work just fine. So far, our baked goods are still turning out delicious and tasty and no one is the wiser in my household.

I made up a full pitcher of milk from our dehydrated milk and stored it in a pitcher in the refrigerator. I didn’t tell anyone that it had been dehydrated. So far, no one has said a word so I think that it’s a hit.

Since we often store milk in a pitcher in the refrigerator I didn’t have to explain why it’s not in the usual gallon sized glass jar. I suppose I could have put it into a gallon sized glass jar, however, my refrigerator was too full to accommodate the gallon sized glass jar.

Dehydrated milk was a great experiment with my dehydrator and I’m relieved to find that it opened up a lot of space in my freezer.

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Winter can be a particularly hard time to keep chickens. During the cold months, I used this time to purchase the chickens that people−the folks I referred to as Towneyz −didn’t want anymore.

I did understand them not wanting to keep their chickens during winter. They are more work, and it is cold out. There are days that it is so cold out you may not want to travel to let your birds in and out. That’s what we are talking about today. There’s methods to caring for your chickens during the cold months. Of course winterizing is essential. This is one of those things I refer to as, ”Working smarter, and not harder.”

I LOVE chickens. I always call them my girls. They bring me so much joy and I –of course−love their eggs. They are a very easy pets, but do require some care. They are especially fragile in the winter and convenience is your friend. There are tried and true methods to keeping your girls cozy and loved in the winter.

Do’s

Do Heat the Water

This one needs to be repeated. I will be talking about this again. Chickens, like all species, need water. When the temperature gets below freezing, they still need fresh water. This is the most important part of winterizing your chickens.

One year it got extremely cold and reached temperatures way below freezing. I bundled myself up and thought of the how the cold can negatively impact my chickens. Needless to say, I did keep them locked away. I made sure they had fresh water by buying a small heat source at a local feed store and the accompanying waterier.

Making sure your chickens have unfrozen water may be one of the most important things you can do for them. Yes, some warmth and shelter are important. The most valuable thing is water though.

If you don’t have means to plug in a device to provide electric heat, consider carrying boiling water to them. No, you don’t want to leave them with scalding water. Yes, you do want water to be warm enough to melt all the ice and provide them with fresh water everyday. Before I had a heat element, I used this method and it did melt the frozen water and cooled when it melted the ice. Make sure the water is cool enough to drink, but not so hot it causes burns.

Think of their water temperature like you would warming up a bottle for a human baby. Test the water temperature on your wrist before you leave the coop. If it’s too warm for you it is too warm for your girls. Making sure they have an adequate supply of fresh water daily is imperative.

If they go too long without fresh water then they will die. This is probably the most important thing you can do to winterize your chickens. They should have clean and fresh water every day of the year. In the winter make sure it doesn’t stay frozen.

Do: Let Them Out

Even in the cold winter months your chickens need exercise and to be outside. I always did everything I could to let my chickens out every day. They need to be able to get sunlight for some time during the day. I raise several varieties of chickens, and they will still occasionally lay eggs in the winter.

You should always let them out to walk around and you should still check for eggs. Know that chickens lay according to the path of the sun. They usually stop laying around the fall equinox and don’t start again until the spring equinox. If you don’t want to head out to your coop everyday, there are door opening options you can plug into your smart phone.

Installing a door that you can open from your phone is an amazing addition, and can keep you warm on those chilling days your girls need to get out, but you want to stay in. Pick a day in the spring to install it. You will need to still be able to cut a hole in the wall of your coop.

Chickens will be able to figure out the location of the opening. If your coop is high up, a simple staircase can aid them in getting down. They do have the ability to fly short distances, and if you don’t want to install a staircase you don’t have to. We’ve embedded a video that shows you just what kind of door you can put in and operate from your smart phone.

Do Make a Window

You want some form of chicken house for your girls. In the summertime, if you leave your windows open and screw in a type of chicken wire that will suffice. In the winter you still want a form of ventilation for your birds. To make a simple window cover all you need is a straight edge and a drill.

With galvanized staples, you can get some simple plywood and cut it the size of your window. It’s then you go to the hardware store and purchase some hinges and follow the directions to put on the door. This provides a way to ventilate your birds and keep them closed in in the winter. This quick and easy window on your chicken house will help keep it insulated during the cold nights and provide a simple and cheap way to protect your chickens in the cold winter.

Winters are hard for chickens. Living a simple lifestyle that isn’t pressed on things like time really is easy. Hens are more care in the winter, but everything is. It really is a fun time to see your first egg. The best way to keep them cozy in the winter is to build them a simple door covering for your chicken window.

Drafts and breeze are a nightmare, however, they do need ventilation. They need some fresh air in the winter. With a little planning you can make a simple window. Chicken care in the winter can be more difficult. They do need ventilation, but a cold wet breeze can spread disease. Keep the water clean and fresh and keep the windows open in the winter.

By installing this easy door for your birds, you will be making it less of a chore and more of a joy. This isn’t a good time of the year to clean your coop. Do it in the spring and put the shavings in your compost bin. This season is about keeping them comfortable until spring.

Do Provide a Heat Lamp

Now, there is controversy over owning a heating lamp. It is a potential fire hazard. For more information on coping with fire, we do provide information on what do to if there’s a homestead fire. There are chicken folks who say you don’t need a heat lamp.

This is akin to what is termed Forced Laying by adding light. It isn’t necessary, but you might want to consider it. If you don’t have access to electricity going into your coop don’t go insane trying to get it there so you can add a heat lamp. One year I lowered my heat lamp too low and one of my birds got burned.

It was not fun to deal with. However, a properly installed lamp that is raised can provide some additional heat. Chickens grow and under feather or down undercoat in the winter. They do have natural abilities to keep warm during the cold months.

I installed a heat lamp because I had electricity leading up to my first coop. Straw is a great insulator and can serve your chickens in the winter. By adding a heat lamp, you are adding a potential fire hazard. I have had weather where it got below 25 degrees.

To me, that was too cold for my girls. I know you don’t want to cause too many problems for your girls. You want them comfortable and happy. However, installing a heat lamp can add problems and not eliminate a problem. Heat lamps are a big consideration and not something that you need to stress about.

You will become a Chicken Master in time. You do not need to start your flock with a heat lamp unless you are starting with baby chicks. Predators can cause a lot of problems. If you are thinking of installing a heat lamp and you have electricity going to your coop, know the dangers and be prepared. A heat lamp will add radiated heat.

Do Install Lights

Hens can provide eggs all year around. In order to do this you will need to install lights that turn off at a certain time and come on at a certain time. That’s called Forced Laying. Hens lay in accordance with the amount of light in the season.

Most hens do not lay during the winter. Know that if your hens do lay all year round, they will stop laying sooner. Know that hens do have a lot of predators, and if you let them lay in accordance to the season you may lose a bird anyway. I always kept one rooster in order to protect the hens.

Once a predator knows there’s a food source they will return. There are some who simply say that it is an unhealthy habit to start. I say if you want to do it, do it. Know that it is an additional fire hazard. We’ve written about potential fire hazards in the past.

All animals need dark and light. Adding additional lighting can cause health problems and make them age faster. Know this before you do it. If you want eggs all year round it is a consideration. Hens lay their eggs in accordance to the fall and spring equinox.

If you do this, then try to not go above the lowest time right before fall. That way, you won’t be giving them too much additional light so they can still naturalize themselves for winter. It will be cold and you do want nature to in some way protect them.

Do Install Cardboard

Very inexpensive and will make your coop warmer. Use it as a panel and a hammer to place and remember to remove it in the spring. If your windows aren’t covered, remember to leave some of the window open to provide air filtration for your birds. You don’t want soggy girls gathering in your coop. That is a hotbed for disease and your girls need some ventilation.

It really is a great and inexpensive insulator. Feed really does cost quite the penny and winterizing your chickens can be a real pain. If you’re not planning on doing any Forced Laying or installing heat lamps then consider installing this. All you really need is time and a staple gun.

Putting this extra insulation in your coop will help keep your girls sheltered and wick away dampness caused from the extra moisture caused by drafts and cold. If it gets damaged, then just take it off and throw it away.

Nowadays, people order so much online, they have extra cardboard boxes just lying around. This is a very cheap way to keep your chickens warm in the winter. Remember that they do grow under feathers in the cold. They may not need heat lamps or extra lighting, but they do need shelter. Protect your chickens with this cheap insulation.

Do Make Sure They Have Shelter

In the dark winter months, your chickens will need some sort of shelter. The two main killers of chicken in the winter are lack of water and frostbite caused from no shelter. The best way to prevent this is the provide some sort of shelter for them.

If you’re skeptical of what would make good shelter, I suggest you find a tour in your community. This will give you a real glimpse into what people do for their birds and help you come up with an idea that will work best for you. There is a number of things you can use to adapt to a coop for your birds. If this doesn’t appeal to you, most farm places do sell ready-made pieces or coops at quite a higher cost.

If you are planning to adapt or build your own coop, consider the roof. In many places in the winter, the roofs are specifically designed to withstand the buildup of snow. You will need to consider this when you build the roof of your chicken house.

If too much weight is piled on, your roof may cave in and cause disarray and even death for your chickens. Make sure they do have some place to go in that provides them with shelter during the cold and wet winter months.

Do Scatter Hay

Your chickens will need to go outside at some point during the cold winter. By scattering hay on the ground they will have bedding material on the ground that will help them stay warm. You always want the driest and freshest hay up top. Plan on scattering hay around your coop at least once per month in order to provide them with a place to walk around and get sunlight and exercise.

Don’ts

Don’t Lower The Heat Lamp

One year I had the heat lamp in my nesting -boxes. One of my birds got too close and burned her back. Keep your heat lamp high enough to provide some warmth, but not so close that your birds get burned.

Having your heat lamp too close to the ground or the hay or pine shavings can increase your chances of a fire occurring. A heat lamp is your choice and know there are risks. Chickens can withstand cold weather. They need fresh water and shelter more.

Don’t Keep Them Locked Up

Your chickens will need to go out every once in a while. Your coop will need ventilation or else it will get damp and sticky. This can cause rampant disease to spread.

Don’t Keep the Coop Too Warm

You will be doing your girls a disservice by heating the coop too much. You can prevent them from growing their under feathers. They need shelter and fresh water the most.

There is an amount of sweat that goes into the caring for your chickens. They are more difficult to take care of in the winter. If you are really in to learning more about chickens, then find your local farm bureau or 4-H and don’t be afraid to ask questions. Another good place is at the local fair. People love to talk about their chickens and you can find a kindred spirit in the process.

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Bentonite clay is a type of absorbent clay that is made up of volcanic ash. This clay is also known as Montmorillonite clay. One of the largest sources of bentonite clay is Fort Benton, Wyoming, which gives the clay its name.

It is also found in the Montmorillon area of France as well as Italy, both large sources of clay mines. The clay can be found all over the world and has many uses and health benefits as well as homestead applications. It is easy to order online or find at health food and farm stores.

There are two main types of bentonite clay: sodium bentonite and calcium bentonite. The clay acts like a sponge and absorbs toxins while leaving behind minerals in their place. Sodium bentonite leaves behind traces of sodium, which makes it beneficial for hydration and restoring electrolytes to the body.

Calcium bentonite leaves behind traces of calcium, which can increase bone and tooth density. Redmond bentonite clay combines both types of clay into one product. Although clay is mined, very little processing is required for this naturally occurring substance. It is available in food grade and non-food grade.

This special clay has healing properties and has been used in traditional and modern medicine for centuries by people all over the world. It is also used in skin care, hair care, and for the purpose of detoxification.

The following information has not been evaluated by the FDA and is not intended to treat or diagnose any disease or ailment. However, there are interesting benefits and uses of bentonite clay to consider for its health and wellness properties. Seek the advice of a healthcare professional before attempting these ideas and always use food grade bentonite clay for internal use.

1) Detoxification

Due to its absorbent properties, bentonite clay aids in the process of detoxification by absorbing and binding toxins to itself. Every day we are exposed to all kinds of toxins that can build up in our system and hamper our bodies’ ability to function well and maintain good health.

Pesticides, plastics, fumes, and poor air quality can all contribute to the buildup of toxins in our bodies. This puts strain on the immune system and other systems in the body. To restore good health, this clay can be taken internally to remove toxins such as heavy metals and bacteria. When the clay is taken internally, it swells and absorbs the toxins, which then pass harmlessly through the system.

Bentonite clay capsules can be purchased to make detoxification a simple and easy process with no unpleasant taste. However, it is also available in loose powder form and can be mixed with water, juice, or smoothies, according to the manufacturer’s directions, to deliver the same results. Always use a food grade brand of the clay for internal use and check with your doctor or pharmacist to make sure it is safe for you to do so. Drink plenty of water when taking this supplement internally.

Additionally, the clay can be mixed with water and poured into a warm bath to create a detoxification bath which will remove toxins and impurities through the skin. Soak for the desired period of time and then rinse well with warm water.

2) Balance pH

Unhealthy diets can cause the body’s pH to become unbalanced. The modern American diet, which is heavy on grains, fats, and red meat, typically drives our bodies towards an acidic state. An acidic body is thought to increase the growth of cancer causing cells and suppress the immune system.

In order to bring our pH back into alignment and restore a slightly alkaline environment, use a supplement made of Bentonite clay. The alkaline properties of this clay will reduce the acidity of the body as it pulls out toxins.

3) Increase Intake of Vitamins and Minerals

When used in occurrence with a healthy diet, a bentonite clay supplement can provide additional vitamins and minerals to the body, similar in effect to a multi-vitamin. It is known to contain up to seventy different vitamins and minerals such as silica, calcium, copper, iron, potassium, and magnesium.

These minerals are essential for our bodies to function well. Magnesium can reduce migraines and silica is an important mineral for strong bones and teeth. Internal use of this supplement will increase the intake of these vitamins and minerals for an overall healthier body when taken regularly.

4) Healthy digestion

A healthy gut is a critical component to good health. Bad bacteria in the gut can suppress the immune system, while good bacteria can contribute to a healthier immune system. Studies show that this type of clay can balance the bacteria in the gut, which creates a healthier digestive system. The entire body feels better and functions better when the gut is healthy.

The clay, when taken internally, may reduce the effects of food poisoning and stomach viruses. It may bind bacteria and remove it from the body while also increasing the body’s ability to fight off the bacteria.

Irritable Bowel Syndrome, constipation and diarrhea, as well as leaky gut are all signs of a sick digestive system. By dissolving one teaspoon of clay into eight ounces of water, taken internally, this clay can bind to the bad bacteria in the gut and pass it out of the system. Removing the bad bacteria may allow the good bacteria to grow and thrive, which increases healthy digestion.

The binding properties of bentonite clay can reduce or eliminate vomiting and diarrhea from stomach viruses and food poisoning (source). It may also reduce the effects of Celiac’s disease, gluten intolerance, and possibly food allergies as they relate to the digestive system, when taken with a meal.

5) Healthy Teeth

Bentonite clay supports healthy teeth and may restore tooth health in decaying teeth. The mouth is full of good and bad bacteria that can be beneficial or harmful to the teeth and gums, especially when left unchecked.

The clay’s ability to draw out toxins can reduce the bacteria in the mouth that causes tooth decay, while the mineral content of the clay can increase the body’s ability to re-mineralize teeth. Teeth become stronger and healthier with regular use. Bad bacteria in the mouth can contribute to other health issues, such as heart disease and stroke. A healthy mouth promotes a healthier body.

You can purchase commercially-made toothpaste, such as Earth Paste, that already contains the clay or you can create your own by following a simple recipe. Homemade toothpaste does not contain harsh chemicals such as fluoride and preservatives, making it a popular choice for those who are conscious of the toxins they put in their bodies.

Toothpaste is easy to make with a few readily available ingredients such as water, salt, and peppermint essential oils. In a pinch, it is possible to brush teeth with a paste made of only bentonite clay and water.

6) Healthy Gums

Bacteria in the mouth can lead to gum decay, which in turn can become periodontal disease, which further contributes to tooth and bone loss. For a natural remedy, the use of bentonite clay as a toothpaste or mouthwash can reduce the bad bacteria in the mouth, resulting in healthier gums and a reduction in the size of pockets that can form around the gums.

Look for toothpaste and mouthwash that contain the clay or use a recipe, such as the one mentioned above, to create your own. Be sure to see a dentist for advice and best results.

7) Whitening Teeth

The abrasive action of bentonite clay in toothpaste can make teeth look whiter and brighter by removing stains, especially when used in a toothpaste. The minerals in the clay, alongside of a healthy diet and good teeth care, can assist in re-mineralizing teeth when used regularly. Restoring teeth through re-mineralization makes teeth stronger, and appear whiter and healthier.

8) Remove Hair Buildup

Regular use of hair products such as hairspray, shampoo, conditioner, and hair gels can cause buildup to the hair shaft. Product buildup on the hair can leave hair looking and feeling dull, lifeless, and hard to manage. It may alter the color of very light hair, making it look dingy or dirty. Over time, product buildup can even cause damage to the hair. You can remove this type of hair buildup with a hair mask made of bentonite clay. A hair mask can be made with water, apple cider vinegar, and this clay to remove the buildup and leave hair looking clean and shiny.

To make a hair mask, mix together water, bentonite clay, and a dash of apple cider vinegar. Mix ingredients until you have a yogurt-like consistency. After creating the hair mask, apply evenly with a brush to damp hair, being sure to cover all of your hair. Do not massage into the scalp, as this can damage fragile hair.

Cover with a plastic shower cap, and allow the mask to sit for approximately thirty minutes. Do not allow the mask to dry out, which would make it difficult to remove. Rinse the hair with warm water to completely remove the mask, and then follow up with shampoo and conditioner as normal. Use this mask once or twice per week. Using the mask on your hair too often may dry out your hair.

9) Condition Hair

Hair that is dry and brittle can benefit from the conditioning properties of bentonite clay. A hair mask for dry hair can be made with coconut oil, clay, and your favorite essential oils to create a deep conditioning mask. Again, apply the mask to damp hair and allow it to sit on the hair for approximately thirty minutes.

Keep your hair covered with a plastic cap to prevent the mask from drying out. Rinse well and shampoo and condition to make sure all of the mask is removed from the hair. This conditioning mask should be used no more than several times per week for best results. Keeping hair soft and conditioned will improve the appearance of curly hair by reducing frizziness.

10) Fight Dandruff

Using a hair mask of bentonite clay will help remove stubborn dandruff from the scalp. It will also reduce sebum on the scalp, the substance that makes hair oily and consequently, more prone to dandruff. A hair mask which contains bentonite clay will also make the scalp inhospitable to the fungus that causes dandruff to occur.

11) Hair Growth

Bentonite clay may contribute to hair growth and thickness. The use of the clay as a hair mask will help to create a healthy scalp and can remove blockages that prevent the hair follicle from growing new hair. It will also add vitamins and minerals to the hair, which will create stronger strands. The vitamins and minerals in the clay, when taken internally, give your body more of what it needs to grow healthy, longer hair.

12) Skin Care

Bentonite clay can easily be added to your skin care routine. It can be used as a facial mask to improve the quality, tone, and condition of your skin.

When used regularly, this clay mask can minimize the look of pores and work to control acne. Acne is caused by dirt and bacteria on the skin that cause infection. As the mask dries, it pulls toxins and bacteria from the skin, thus reducing the root cause of acne. The clay itself has anti-inflammatory properties which will reduce the appearance of acne, help it to heal more quickly, soothe the pain, and reduce redness. It may also reduce the look of oily skin. Continued use will reduce the occurrence of acne.

13) Makeup

Store-bought makeup usually features a long list of complicated, hard-to-pronounce ingredients that aren’t necessarily good for your skin and your body. With a few simple ingredients such as arrowroot powder, calcium bentonite clay, and spices from your kitchen, you can create your own custom colored powder makeup foundation.

Costs are minimal and there are no preservatives or chemicals added to the makeup. The addition of clay to your makeup will help to fight acne and accompanying redness, as well as reduce oil. The clay can also be used as a base color for your homemade foundation. See this recipe on Mommypatomus or this recipe on Don’t Waste the Crumbs to learn how you can create your own powder foundation using bentonite clay.

14) Soothe Burns

Bentonite clay is known to reduce the sting of minor burns and promote healing for burns and abrasions. Create a gel from one part clay to two parts water and mix well. Apply the gel generously to the burn and cover with plastic wrap.

It is important to remove the clay before it dries by rinsing thoroughly with water. You can mix your gel and keep it on hand in a plastic container near your first aid kit to be prepared, but be sure to see a doctor or visit the emergency room for severe wounds and burns.

15) To Soothe Bites and Stings

The absorption and detoxification properties of the clay can reduce the effects of insect stings. Create a paste with the clay and water and apply to the affected area. Cover with a breathable cloth that will allow the clay to begin to dry. The drying effects of the clay will ideally pull the venom from the site as well as reduce inflammation in the area and reduce pain.

16) Sooth Skin Irritations

Bentonite clay has been used in creams to soothe painful problems such as poison oak and poison ivy, contact allergies, rashes, eczema, and psoriasis. To soothe the effects of poison ivy, wash the affected area thoroughly. Create a paste from the bentonite clay and water, and apply until it dries and then rinse off.

17) Weight Loss

Weight loss has been observed in people who take bentonite clay internally as a supplement. Although no hard data from scientific studies exists to prove this benefit of bentonite clay, studies on lab rats have shown a reduction in weight over time when fed this supplement.

18) Household Benefits

Sodium bentonite clay is also used around the homestead as a sealant and pond sealer. While this variety of bentonite clay is considerably less expensive than food grade versions, it is not intended for internal use. However, it makes a natural and permanent sealer for ponds which is considered safe to use and environmentally friendly. This clay can also be used to repair and seal cracks in basement walls.

Bentonite clay is also used as a soil additive as it provides vitamins and minerals to the plants. It can improve the water retention of sandy soils, and has the potential to repel diseases and pests in plants. It is often used as an additive to pelletize seed. Lastly, bentonite clay can be added to animal feed to improve digestion and has been shown to increase milk production in cattle.

Risks

Bentonite clay is a naturally occurring resource found throughout the world. It is generally regarded as safe because of its longstanding use across cultures and generations. However, one must always take care to research any treatment thoroughly, as well as consult a doctor or health care professional before use.

Also, according to University Health News, care should be taken to properly use bentonite clay. Never use more than one part clay to four parts water to prevent a bowel obstruction or loss of electrolytes in the body. Drink plenty of water when using the clay internally.

Bentonite clay has been shown to have a myriad of benefits and uses for health, wellness, and around the homestead. It has been seen to promote overall health, digestive health, and immune system support. It has served as wound care, treatment for skin issues, and problems related to dermatitis. It has been used to promote healthy teeth and gums.

Bentonite clay has long been used in skin care and hair care products. It may protect against illness such as food poisoning and the stomach flu. In lab rats, it has shown to prevent cancer and promote weight loss. It can be taken internally and used easily externally. This versatile, inexpensive clay makes a great addition to any homestead or household.

Disclaimer

The advice in this article is for information purposes only, and is not to be considered medical advice. Before employing any of the advice in this article, please consult your physician. Neither the author nor www.homesteadinghippy.com shall be held liable for any damage, injury, death or any side effects as a direct or indirect advice of applying the advice given in this article.

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Mint plants are a popular addition to any household vegetable or herb garden. The mint family, otherwise known as the mentha family, has a myriad of health, culinary, and household benefits. There are at least fifteen to twenty different species of mint and they are all are easy to grow and enjoy.

Mint Characteristics

All plants in the mentha family share similar characteristics. All mint species have a distinctive minty smell that varies subtly by type. Mint plants are perennials that grow with branching stems to a height of one to two feet tall. Mint plants have tiny, tubular pink to purple flowers. The leaves have short stems and fine teeth. Some mint varieties have fine hairs while others do not.

The Benefits of Growing Mint

The benefits of growing mint are wide. They include a variety of health, culinary, and household uses. For many years, fresh peppermint has been thought to ease digestion and digestive upsets. It has been used to soothe and relieve headaches and migraines. Mint oil has been used to ease symptoms of Irritable Bowel Syndrome and tension headaches.

The fragrance of mint essential oil could improve brain function because it increases the brain’s ability to focus. The mint plant and leaves are also full of vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. The pleasant scent of the mint plant can mask bad breath.

Specifically, peppermint tea can reduce indigestion. Taken at bedtime, it can induce healthy, restful sleep. Peppermint tea can aid in hydration and weight loss when taken daily. Always see your doctor before beginning a weight loss or health supplement.

Mint is frequently used as a flavoring for candy, drinks, and salads. Fresh mint can be muddled in the bottom of a glass to make mojitos with seltzer, sugar, and fresh limes. Infuse youR favorite flavor of mint into vodka or into a fine culinary oil. Mint can be blended into your favorite smoothies, juices, or added to ice tea for a no to low calorie flavoring.

Try varieties such as peppermint, orange mint, and spearmint. You can make peppermint tea by pouring boiling water over fresh or dried mint tea leaves and allowing them to steep for several minutes. Strain the leaves, being careful not to get burned. Sweeten as desired.

Around the homestead, mint is used to deter mice and other rodents. They avoid the potent smell of mint oil, however, mint plants and leaves are also an excellent deterrent to small animals and bugs.

Plant mint along the border of your garden (keeping in mind its invasive properties) to attract predator insects and repel insects that are destructive to your garden. The pleasing aroma of the mint plant to humans makes mint a great choice for lining walkways where the fragrance will be released as you brush up against it. Specifically, the mint species known as pennyroyal has been used as a flea repellent.

Mint Varieties

There are plenty of mint varieties to choose from. Some plants of the mentha family are better when used for culinary purposes, while others are more often used for their fragrance or health benefits. Here are some of the most well-known varieties of mint to consider for your own garden or homestead.

• Peppermint (photo above). Peppermint is also known as mentha piperita, and is probably the most common and readily available variety of mint plants. Mentha piperita has hairy, jagged leaves and comes in standard and the slower-growing variegated types.

• Spearmint (above). Spearmint, or mentha spicata, is also readily available and has hairy leaves. It is often found in backyards.
• Catmint. Catmint is not the same type of plant as the pet treat, catnip. Catmint can be used in cooking and is extremely drought tolerant.
• Chocolate mint. Chocolate mint grows brown-hued stems and offers a hint of chocolate fragrance. This mint works well in sweeter culinary dishes.
• Orange mint. Mentha peperita citrata has a mild citrus overtone and works well in beverages and cooking.
• Lavender mint. Lavender mint grows on red stems and bears a floral aroma.

photo credits: Ivar Leidus [CC BY-SA 3.0], from Wikimedia Commons

• Corn mint (photo above). Corn mint (mentha arvensis) is also known as field mint or wild mint. It is frequently made into essential oil and is sometimes substituted for peppermint oil. Corn mint has a strong and somewhat bitter flavor.
• Pineapple mint. Pineapple mint is also called apple mint or wooly mint. It is attractive as a ground cover with white edging on its leaves and offers a sweet flavor.

photo courtesy of SEWilco [CC BY-SA 3.0], from Wikimedia Commons

• Gingermint (left in the above photo) and applemint (right in the above photo).
• Calamint. Calamint, or calamintha nepeta, is a showy relative of the mint family. According to gardeningknowhow.com, it is a medicinal herb most often used in poultices. Calamint should not be handled by pregnant women.
• Licorice mint.
• Chewing gum mint.
• Egyptian mint.
• Moroccan mint.
• Banana mint.
• Basil Mint. Basil mint has a spicy flavor when compared to other, sweeter, mints.
• Pennyroyal. Pennyroyal is a type of ground cover often found in fields. It should not be used for culinary purposes.

How to Grow Mint

Growing mint is not as challenging as it seems. Mint is a hardy and drought tolerant perennial herb with a shallow root system that can be grown indoors or outdoors. You can propagate mint from a plant or start it from seed without fancy equipment or expensive set-ups.

How to Start Mint from Seed

Tiny mint seeds are easier to start in a simple seed starting set-up than they are to start directly sown into the garden. You could use small Jiffy peat pots, plastic trays, or extra small plastic pots that you have on hand. This will help you keep control of the tiny seeds that are easily lost in the garden or in large pots.

If you are planning on planting your mint outside, you will want to start your mint seeds approximately eight to ten weeks before the last frost date for your area, giving plenty of time for them to grow and harden off before planting.

Choose a seed starting medium that is well-draining and loose. Professionally made seed starting soil works well, as does compost mixed with vermiculite for drainage. Fill your small seed trays or cups with seed starting medium, and make a small indentation in each section with your thumb to create a tiny nest to hold the seeds. Carefully place several mint seeds in each indentation.

Be careful because these tiny seeds are easy to lose. Lightly cover the mint seeds with a fine layer of vermiculite or sand to help them stay moist and germinate without getting lost. Do not plant the seeds too deeply, a quarter of an inch is the best depth for the mint seeds to grow. Water lightly, being careful not to wash away the tiny seeds as you water them.

Seeds should sprout within twenty to twenty one days. If seeds do not sprout within three weeks, there may be a problem with seed fertility, soil condition, or some other problem that needs to be addressed.

After the seedlings have become well-established, be sure to harden them off over the course of a week to ten days before planting them in the garden. Begin by placing the seedlings outside for two to three hours per day, out of direct sun or wind.

Gradually increase this period over the course of a week, being careful to bring them in during unusually harsh weather. After the seedlings have become accustomed to the outside weather you can plant them in the garden, being mindful of their propensity to spread quickly. When your mint plants have become well-established in your garden, they will come back year after year.

It takes approximately ninety days for mint plants to go from seed to harvest. Mint can be difficult to grow from seed, and some species, such as peppermint, are sterile and do not make seeds at all. In this case, you can try growing mint from a cutting.

How to Propagate Mint from Cuttings

Because mint can be difficult to grow from seed, you may want to start your mint herb garden with a cutting. Find a hearty, healthy mint plant that is a variety that you enjoy. Look for plants with sturdy and erect stems, healthy leaves, and lush green color.

Take several cuttings from the plant, about five to six inches in length. Place the stems in water, and allow the plant to grow roots over the course of several weeks. Once the roots are well-established, you can either continue growing the plant in water or plant the mint in soil.

If you grow the mint in water, change the water frequently so that it does not smell or grow bacteria that will harm the plant and caused root rot. If you want to grow the mint in soil, you can plant it in your garden or in a pot outside after hardening the plant off. Choose well-draining soil, and loosely pack the soil around the plant’s roots. Water thoroughly as needed.

How to Dig Mint Plants from the Garden

The easiest way to grow your own mint is to find a friend with a healthy and hearty mint patch, especially if they allow you to sample their mint first. Use a shovel to separate a one foot square section of mint from the rest of the patch.

Dig from under the roots of the plants, trying to dig deep enough so as not to damage the shallow root system. Transplant the dirt and mint into your own garden or pot and water thoroughly. If the mint is dry and begins to droop, water some more. It will take a few weeks to establish it’s new root system and become accustomed to its new location.

Mint Conditions

If mint had its preference, it would live in full sun to part shade and grow in well-drained, loose soil. Surprisingly, this hardy plant will tolerate even average garden soil and is fairly forgiving to the newbie gardener’s mistakes. Mint will usually thrive without fertilizer, however, if you have dense mint plants, you may need to move your mint beds after several years due to declining soil fertility.

Look for varieties of mint that have been grown in your area for the best results rather than purchasing mint plants from another part of the country or growing zone. Peppermint, for example, has a higher tolerance of dry conditions than spearmint. If you live in a drier area, then choose peppermint as your mint of choice to save time and energy on watering.

Growing mint indoors is highly possible, but it requires more careful attention to watering. Because mint prefers well-drained soil, it does not like to be overwatered. If your mint plant looks droopy but the soil is wet, it has probably been overwatered. Other signs of over-watering may include yellowing leaves, brown leaves, and rotting roots.

Adding vermiculite to your potting soil may improve its drainage and help prevent your mint plants from being watered too much. Keep your mint in a sunny window where it will get plenty of light.

Mint is often considered to be an invasive herb. Allowed to grow unchecked, it will spread throughout your garden, flowerbeds, or yard. Consider taking a few extra steps to keep mint from spreading invasively where you do not want it to grow.

How to Control Mint Growth

In order to control mint growth, it is best grown in containers. If this is not an option, you can keep mint separated with a garden divider, or a small brick or stone wall. Mint has a shallow root system and pulls out of the ground easily. You can pull out any sections that are growing where you do not want mint to grow and plant them elsewhere if desired.

Different mint varieties can cross pollinate. This means that if you have several different species of mint in the same location, they could intermix and create a different or off type of mint plant. The results can be unpredictable and less than desirable.

However, mint plants frequently grow into dense mats that do not allow seeds to grow into seedlings. Any resulting cross pollinated mint seeds may not grow for this reason. On the other hand, peppermint is a sterile variety of mint and does not produce seeds.

How to Harvest Fresh Mint

The new growth on mint is the part of the plant that has the best flavor. Trim or harvest your mint plant every two to three weeks by cutting or pinching off the stems before the plant flowers. Mint is still fine to use after flowering, however, the aroma and taste may not be as intense as it was before the plant began to flower.

Cut your mint stems above the first or second set of leaves. This will leave enough plant to allow it to quickly regrow. You should be able to harvest the same mint stems two to three times each growing season.

How to Save and Store Mint

You can store mint in the refrigerator or freezer, or you can preserve it by using a drying method. Fresh mint can be stored in the refrigerator for seven to ten days. Keep mint stems in water to keep them fresh.

You can freeze mint by washing choice leaves and placing them in an ice cube tray. Pour water over the mint leaves, and place the trays in the freezer, allowing them to freeze. Once the ice cubes are frozen solid, you can pop them right out of the tray and store them in a freezer bag in the freezer until needed. This is an easy way to store and use mint for teas and flavorings.

Drying mint is a practical way to store mint longterm. Make sure to harvest the mint plants before it flowers for the most intense flavor and taste for this application. There are several easy methods to dry mint.

The old-fashioned, tried and true method of drying mint has been used for many years. It is always best to start with freshly harvested mint. Wash the mint stems in cool water and gently shake the excess water off of the plant. Loosely tie several stems together inside of a paper bag, and hang upside-down in a dry, warm area away from sunlight. The leaves will be dry in one to two weeks time. Crumble and store in a glass container out of direct sunlight.

For a faster means of drying mint leaves, use a standard home dehydrator. Rinse freshly picked mint leaves in water, and gently pat dry with a paper towel. Spread out the leaves on the trays of the dehydrator, then follow the directions that came with your dehydrator. Your mint will be dry in a matter of hours.

If you do not own a dehydrator, you can dry your mint leaves in the oven. Simple rinse mint leaves and gently pat them dry. Spread leaves out on cookie sheets and bake for two to three hours at 180 degrees or less. Leaves are ready when they are dry and crumbly.

After you have dried your leaves using your method of choice, you can crumble them into a mason jar or vacuum seal them for the longest lasting dried mint. For more information on harvesting and drying mint, check out this article by Heather Harris on How to Harvest and Dry Mint.

Where to Buy Mint Plants

Live mint plants can often be purchased at your local grocery store in the fresh foods section. These plants are great if you are going to use them for cooking in the next week or two. However, propagating grocery store plants can be difficult with mixed results.

For stronger, healthier plants, check your local nurseries for mint plants that are ready to go in your garden or for pre-potted window sill gardens. You can also order mint plants online from places such as burpee.com, Amazon or other online nurseries. The best means of acquiring mint is from cuttings from the established plants of families and friends near you. The plants will be more acclimated to your climate and ready to grow.

Mint is a wonderful plant to grow on your homestead or in your backyard garden. There are varieties for every taste and desire, with peppermint and spearmint being the most common. Mint can be used for culinary, health, and household use. With very little effort, your mint plants will grow and thrive, giving you years of delicious, fragrant mint to enjoy.

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