gardening

Do you live in planting zone nine?

If you’re interested in growing the majority of your own food (or even to supplement food to save on groceries), this is a great zone to live in.

Whether you’re new to gardening or looking for a few new gardening ideas, you’ve come to the right place. I’m going to share a few gardening basics for this planting zone and also share what you can grow in this area.

If you’re ready to embrace your garden and planting zone, let’s get started. Here’s what you should be growing if you live in planting zone nine:

Gardening Basics for Planting Zone Nine

Planting zone nine is a remarkable zone to live in because of the long growing seasons. The average low temperature during the winter months is 25° Fahrenheit.

Therefore, you don’t have hard freezes during the winter months. This equates to being able to grow food almost year-round.

You can grow cold-weather crops in the earliest and latest part of the year. Pay attention to the weather and when a frost threat arises, place a row cover over the crops.

Keep in mind; you could also grow cold-weather crops in a container garden. If a threat of frost arises, you could place the containers inside a greenhouse or move them into a protected area until the danger passes.

You also have long summers because of the warm temperatures. This relates to being able to have multiple plantings of your warm weather crops.

If you’re interested in growing a variety of foods, this is an excellent planting zone to be in.

What You Should Plant in Zone Nine Gardening

Living in planting zone nine, you have quite a variety of fruits, vegetables, and herbs which can be grown in your garden.

I’ve divided them out into different categories to keep the list from feeling overwhelming. Here’s what you can grow in your garden:

Leafy Greens

I love leafy greens. They can be used in various ways, and they make me feel good. Leafy greens should be a large part of our diet because of all the vitamins and nutrients they provide.

They’re perfect for being grown inground, in raised beds, or in containers. You could also use them as part of an edible landscape. The options are many when raising these leafy greens:

• Arugula
• Collard greens
• Spinach
• Kale
• Lettuce

Fruits

We all love fresh, delicious fruit, especially on a hot day. You no longer have to pay outrageous prices to enjoy their taste.

Instead, you can plant your own fruit. Keep in mind, many fruit plants are perennial and take a few years to produce heavily.

But if you plant them once, they should return year after year and give an abundant harvest perfect for preserving.

Other fruits grow on vines and serve as annuals. Be sure you give these fruit options enough room to grow.

Here’s the fruit you can grow in planting zone nine:

• Blackberries
• Watermelons
• Cantaloupe
• Strawberries
• Figs
• Grapes
• Lemons
• Oranges
• Pears
• Plums

Root Crops

Root crops are wonderful to grow because they do fantastic in containers. I prefer to grow many root crops in containers because it’s easier to keep the soil loose and to their liking.

However, other root crops need more room if you plant an abundance (such as potatoes.) Root crops store beautifully in a root cellar.

You can also leave them in the garden over winter if you don’t have storage. Be sure to cover them with an adequate layer of mulch to insulate them.

Yet, the colder the temperature, the sweeter it can make your root veggies taste. Here are your root veggie options:

• Beets
• Rutabagas
• Carrots
• Onions
• Parsnips
• Radishes
• Sweet potatoes
• Turnips

Herbs

If you’re growing a bunch of delicious fruits and vegetables, don’t forget the herbs to dress them out. Herbs can be grown in containers, a raised bed, or in your regular garden.

Here are the herbs which grow best in this location:

• Sage
• Thyme
• Parsley
• Rosemary

Vegetables

Our last stop around the garden in planting zone nine is the vegetable patch. There are a wide variety of crops which grow well in this area.

Some are cold weather crops and will do better if grown during the earliest or latest part of the year. While other crops thrive in the warmer temperatures and will do fine during the remaining months of the year.

As a general rule of thumb, root vegetables and leafy greens do better in colder temperatures. While the fruits and herbs prefer warmer temperatures.

Here are the vegetables we haven’t discussed yet but will grow beautifully in this zone during the cooler times of the year:

• Broccoli
• Brussels sprouts
• Cabbage
• Cauliflower
• Celery
• Winter squash
• Peas

The following crops grow better in warmer temperatures for zone nine gardening:

• Asparagus
• Beans
• Bell peppers
• Corn
• Cucumbers
• Summer squash
• Eggplant
• Okra
• Tomatoes
• Pumpkins

A Quick Tip

There are certain crops mentioned in the list above which will do better in specific locations or should have more thought put into where they’re being planted.

Take special consideration when planting the following items in your garden:

1. Asparagus

Asparagus will come back each year after you plant the crowns. They do best if planted in a bed by themselves to make sure they aren’t disturbed or torn down accidentally.

The first time I grew asparagus, I planted it along a fence line which worked well. I don’t have a regular fence at my home currently.

Therefore, I grow my asparagus in a bed by themselves to make sure they’re cared for properly. Consider where you’d like a permanent bed on your property when planting asparagus.

2. Blackberries

Blackberries are a perennial plant and will come back faithfully each year if taken care of correctly and if the elements don’t harm them beyond your control.

If you plant blackberries, consider where you’d like them in the future because once you plant them, they’re there.

My blackberries are all planted together in a corner in my yard. This works because they’re out of the way, but they look beautiful when they’re producing.

3. Strawberries

Some strawberry varieties are annuals. They’ll produce heavily the first year, but they’re done after. You can also choose perennial varieties.

They don’t produce a large harvest the first couple of years, but they come back stronger with each passing year.

If you’re planting a perennial variety of strawberries be sure to place them in a bed or planter where they can be left undisturbed when they’re not producing.

4. Grapes

I have a vineyard on my property. If you plant a large number of grapes, you should place them in an area of your yard where they won’t be disturbed.

You can choose to use a trellis to support them as they grow. If you only plant a couple of grape vines, you can grow them along a trellis or allow them to sprawl across a fence.

Either way, you want them to be where you’ll be satisfied with them for years to come and where the weed eater won’t take them out.

5. Fruit Trees

Fruit trees are a gorgeous addition to any yard. If you have space, you can plant a small orchard with a variety of fruit trees.

Yet, if you live in an area with a smaller yard, you could plant a dwarf variety of a fruit tree for an edible landscape.

Fruit trees take a few years to begin producing and will return with each passing year. Therefore, make sure you plant the tree or trees where you’ll want them for years to come.

You now know which plants suits zone nine gardening and also the plants which you should give special consideration before following through with planting them.

Hopefully you’ll have a variety of edible items growing in your yard. Not only does it make you more self-sufficient, but it makes it easier to lead a healthier lifestyle.

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Comfrey is one of those herbs that doesn't get the attention it should. It has medicinal properties, and it's high in protein. It's a perennial that brings nutrients up from the depths of your soil for other plants to access, and it's a nice addition to the compost pile. Comfrey is also a wholesome meal for livestock. The best news of all? Growing comfrey doesn't require any special tools or skills.

Comfrey is native to Europe, and it's found all over Great Britain, where it grows wild along waterways and ditches. It probably made the leap to the Americas in the 1600s with European settlers. Now, you can find it all across the globe.

Comfrey has large tap roots and dainty bell-shaped flowers that add a delicate bit of cheer to the garden. It's especially impressive looking placed in the center of an herb bed. Ready to get started growing comfrey in your garden?

Comfrey Varieties

Common Comfrey

Common comfrey (Symphytum officinale) is the one you'll generally find listed in gardening catalogs and nurseries without a variety name. This type has wooly, fuzzy leaves and delicate pink flowers. It grows about three feet tall and makes seeds.

Russian Comfrey

Russian Comfrey (Symphytum uplandicum) sports deep green wooly foliage and bell-shaped purple flowers. It's taller than common comfrey, and it can become invasive if you let it. This variety has a higher concentration of pyrrolizidine alkaloid which increases its medicinal value.

Blocking 14 and Blocking 4

There are two main cultivars of Symphytum uplandicum: Bocking 14 and Bocking 4, named for Blocking, England where they were developed.

Blocking 14 is sterile and does not produce seeds. The only way to propagate it is through divisions and root crowns. Trials have shown it has a high level of potash which makes it great as a mulch for tomatoes or a compost addition.

Blocking 4 has deep roots – up to ten feet long. These roots bring nutrients from the subsoil up into the plant, improving the surrounding soil. It's ideal fodder for hogs and chickens.

Creeping Comfrey

Creeping comfrey (Symphytum grandiflorum) is a dwarf variety that is more useful as an ornamental. It does well in rock gardens and on slopes, but watch out. It can be invasive.

How to Plant Comfrey

Temperature Requirements

Comfrey is cold hardy and grows in zones 3-9. In colder climates, it will die back in winter and then come up again in spring.

Sun and Soil Requirements

Comfrey grows well in full sun to part shade. It needs soil with a pH between 6.0-7.0 that is well drained and rich in organic matter. That said, comfrey isn't fussy.

Spacing

Comfrey is a tall plant, and some varieties can reach five feet or more. Plants should be spaced two feet apart in each direction. It can be invasive, so be mindful when planting.

Consider Placement

I don’t plant my comfrey all in one place. Instead, I put them around in various garden areas. I do this because it brings up nutrients from the soil, so they are available to other plants.

Being a perennial, you will want to give some thought to placement. I put comfrey plant in a garden corner to keep them contained.

Starting From Seeds

Start comfrey from seeds indoors in late winter. Comfrey seeds need a chilling period. Place them in a cool dark area such as an outdoor shed or refrigerator for a month before planting. They are slow to germinate, and if conditions are not to their liking, they may take a year to start growing.

Starting from Transplants or Cuttings

Your local nursery may carry comfrey in the herb section, and they are widely available at online retailers. Look for plants with good growth and deep green leaves. You can also take a cutting from a neighbor's plant.

Comfrey grows best from bare-root crowns, which many online retailers carry. When you receive your crown, check to make sure that it feels firm. A mushy crown may have rotted and should be returned.

Start Crowns Indoors

Crowns do best if you pot them first instead of planting directly in the garden. Put in a six-inch pot or a one-gallon container so the roots have plenty of room. Plant crowns three inches deep in light potting soil.

Place the pot in a cool room (50-60°F) in indirect sunlight. Keep moist but not wet. You can plant outdoors after the danger of frost has passed when they are showing leaves.

Plant transplants or cuttings 2-8 inches deep and crown cuttings 3-6 inches deep. Put plants deeper in sandy soil or where the weather is hot, and more shallow in places where the soil has clay or the weather is cold.

How to Care for Comfrey

Watering

Once established, comfrey is drought tolerant because of its long roots. However, it will be happier if kept moist, particularly during dry spells. You don't need to worry about fertilizing comfrey.

Dividing

Comfrey needs to be divided every couple of years. Doing so keeps the plant healthy and gives the roots plenty of space. Plant divisions in another location or share with a friend.

Comfrey Problems and Solutions

Comfrey is a hardy plant with few diseases and pest issues. I did lose a comfrey plant to weeds once. It was my fault. I planted it in an area where I had planned to start another garden. But time and energy gave way and weeds took over.

Comfrey can also be susceptible to comfrey rust, which is a fungus that can reduce plant yield. It's primarily a problem only in the U.K. The blocking 14 variety is resistant to rust.

Companions for Comfrey

Growing comfrey with other plants is smart because it brings minerals from the subsoil up to the topsoil. It gets tall and can crowd out its neighbors, so keep spacing in mind. This can also work to your advantage as it can provide shade for cool-loving greens.

Comfrey is particularly good with:

• Pear
• Plum
• Nectarine
• Apple
• Peach
• Apricot
• Persimmon
• Tomato
• Potato
• Cucumber
• Capsicum

Harvesting and Storing Comfrey

Comfrey produces bell-like flowers in late spring and early summer. They are high in nectar and popular with honey bees and other pollinators.

You can harvest comfrey from late spring through fall depending on how you use it. Harvest common comfrey plants when they're about two feet tall and starting to flower if you're going to use the leaves.

Comfrey for Compost

Comfrey makes an excellent compost plant. It's high in minerals including potassium, silica, magnesium, calcium, nitrogen, and iron. These minerals enter your compost as the plant decomposes.

The leaves contain about 17% nitrogen. By comparison, horse manure contains about 14% while fresh and 2.3% composted. Leaves have high levels of potash as well as many other minerals that will enrich your compost.

To add comfrey to your compost, harvest the leaves and toss them in your green layer. Let the microorganisms break it down and mix in the nutrients.

Comfrey Tea for the Garden

Comfrey is excellent in compost tea. Chop up the plants and place them at the bottom of a five-gallon bucket.

Fill the bucket with water. You will need to place a rock or brick on the leaves to keep them submerged. Let the leaves brew until the tea forms a dark amber color. Dilute the liquid at a 15:1 ratio before using.

Comfrey for Livestock

When I was growing up, it was common to feed comfrey to livestock because of its high mineral and protein content. Studies show that comfrey contains selenium which is often deficient in our fields and livestock. It also has lower levels of fiber, which makes it good for pigs and chickens.

Common wisdom says ruminants and milk animals increase lactation when they eat comfrey. My dairy goats and deer love comfrey and often invade garden to get at it. I haven't seen any negative effects, but it's something they eat only occasionally, so use your best judgment.

Medicinal Qualities

Comfrey is nicknamed knitbone because of its healing properties for skin and bone issues. It contains allantoin and when applied topically it can relieve distress from skin irritations, cuts, sprains, and swelling.

It's particularly useful for insect bites, including if your honey bees get mad at you. I was invaded by yellow jackets last year and stung twice. I made a comfrey poultice to draw out the toxins.

Traditionally, comfrey was used for internal ailments such as stomach aches. However, scientific studies have linked comfrey to liver toxicity and it shouldn't be used internally. In 2001, the U.S. FDA banned products containing comfrey.

My Personal Comfrey Healing

I don’t recommend avoiding going to a doctor if you need stitches. However, I once treated a bad cut with comfrey. I slipped in the mud and landed arm first on a glass cold frame. I received a nasty gash on my wrist that needed stitches.

My car wasn't running, my infant son was napping and I had no money for the doctor. So I applied pressure with a towel to stop the bleeding and plucked several comfrey leaves. I stuck them in a pot of water to boil, and after the leaves were supple, I placed them on my wrist and applied a bandage. I did this several times a day over several days and was careful to watch for infection.

It healed up nicely and to this day I have a slight scar that reminds me why I love the comfrey plant!

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Who doesn’t love mom’s cherry pie? Or a cherry on top of a sundae? There are few things as enjoyable as having your own cherry tree, from the stunning spring blossoms to being able to pick the juicy fruits fresh of the tree. It's no wonder that the cherry tree has been cultivated for thousands of years, originating in Europe and coming to North America in the 1600s.

I'm not going to lie, growing cherries has a few challenges. For instance, the trees have a chilling requirement, which is why they're primarily grown north of the Mason Dixon line. You'll also have to figure out how to battle the birds and other critters who love cherries as much as you do. Then there are the diseases and pollination challenges.

Don't let these hurdles put you off. When it comes time to pluck basketfuls of ripe fruits off the tree, you'll be glad you made the effort. Read on to get started.

Cherries Varieties

Sweet Cherry

Sweet cherries originated from Prunus avium, the wild cherry that is part of the rose family. They need to have a cherry friend to cross-pollinate with. Complicating things further, only certain cherries play nicely together.

Check out pollination charts or speak with a nursery expert to find out which trees will pollinate each other before purchasing. Sweet cherries can take 5-7 years before they start bearing fruit. When mature, sweet cherries produce about 15-20 quarts for dwarf trees and 40 quarts for semi-dwarf trees. Standard trees will give you up to 50 quarts.

• Bing – Bing is the classic commercial cherry with the traditional heart shape. It produces large, dark red fruits that are sweet and juicy. They are recommended for west cost growers and is a late season producer.
• Gold – These cherries are small and a pretty, deep yellow color. The flavor is tangy-sweet and ideal for eating fresh and processing. It's a mid-season producer.
• Kristen – Kristen is a popular variety with market growers due to its sweet flavor. The purplish black fruit holds well, and the tree is cold hardy.
• Rainer Cherries – This is Washington’s famous cherry, named after Mt. Rainer. They're yellow with a red blush and yellow flesh. Ripens mid-season. This is one of the hardiest of the sweet cherries.
• Stella – Stella is another old favorite. The dark red fruits are large and resistant to cracking. It can be cold sensitive.

Sour Cherry

Sour or tart cherries originated from the Prunus cerasus, a close relative of the sweet cherry. It's also part of the rose family. Sour cherries self-pollinate and can be planted as a single tree, although evidence suggests a friend may increase the fruit volume.

Tart cherries are more cold hardy and have a later bloom time. This means they're not as compatible as pollinators for sweet cherries since they don't bloom at the same time.

Sour cherry trees do best in zones 4-6 and begin bearing at 3-5 years. A mature tree will yield an average of 20 quarts for dwarf trees, and up to 30-40 for semi-dwarf, depending on the variety and if there are other pollinators around.

• Danube – The Danube is a favorite in the mid-Atlantic region and Michigan. It's cold sensitive and likes to grow near bodies of water.
• Montmorency – This is my favorite cherry, primarily because I can get it to reliably fruit. It produces a dark red, juicy fruit. It is self-pollinating and perfect for pies and canning. We also eat them straight off the tree.
• North Star Pie Cherry – This is a prolific producer that grows tons of juicy, tart cherries. It is disease resistant and starts bearing a few years after planting.

Nanking Cherry

Nanking (Prunus tomentosa) bush cherries are also known as Manchu cherry or mountain cherry and are closely related to plums. They originated in Asia and were introduced into America in the late 1800s. They were brought over by enterprising gardeners because they are more adaptable to different climates than sweet and tart varieties.

Nanking cherries are smaller than other cherries and grow in a bush-like shape. They're an attractive plant in your landscaping and birds love them. Nanking cherries grow in zones 2-8 and can handle poor soil. They'll produce lots of tart, tangy, pinkish fruits in the first or second year after planting. A mature plant will produce up to 8 quarts a year.

There are several unnamed cultivars of Nanking cherry. Often in nursery catalogs, you will see them listed simply as Nanking. However, named varieties are available which help you distinguish what you are getting.

Planting Cherry Trees

Planting Zones

Growing cherries need a chilling period of 800-1,300 hours in temperatures between 32-55°F, so they don't do well in many southern areas. On the flip side, cherries also can be cold sensitive and don't do well in far northern regions with harsh winters.

In general, cherries grow in zones 5-8, with a few varieties bred to survive the cold of zone 4 and others to handle the heat of zone 9. It's essential to pick a type that will grow in your area.

Where to Plant

Picking the right spot for your cherry trees is also critical. More so than for apples or pears. One technique is to plant your cherry trees in the middle of the orchard so that they get some protection from surrounding trees. Avoid planting your cherries in a frost pocket or low spot. Gentle slopes are ideal. Cherries like to be near bodies of water (think Washington DC and their famous cherry trees).

Cherries need full sun and good air flow.

Choosing Root Stock

Probably more important than selecting the variety is selecting the rootstock. A healthy stock is essential to get the tree off to a vigorous and productive start in life. Mazzard and Mahaleb rootstocks are considered by many to be the best.

When to Plant

Plant cherries in the fall or early spring when the soil is moist and soft.

Soil Requirements

Plant young cherry trees in a protected area. They need well-drained, loamy, sandy soil with a pH between 5.5-7.5. Cherries do not like wet feet so dig a deep hole and backfill with a well-draining soil mixture.

Here is my formula for planting healthy trees:

• Soil from the hole
• A gallon tub of peat moss
• A gallon tub of well-aged compost
• Two cups bonemeal
• Two cups fish meal in the spring only

The peat moss adds texture and helps regulate water in the soil. Your compost will provide micronutrients that will get your tree off to a great start. Bone meal is high in phosphorus and great for root growth. While this method takes more time than digging a hole and sticking in a tree, it pays off huge dividends in the long run.

Spacing

Like most fruits, cherry trees come in standard, semi-dwarf and dwarf sizes. Standard sweet cherries need 35-40 feet between trees. Standard tart cherries need 20-25 feet of space between plants. Plant semi-dwarf trees 15 feet apart and dwarf trees 10 feet apart. Nanking cherries are bushes and can be planted 6-8 feet apart.

Caring for Growing Cherries

Mulching

Cherry trees appreciate a natural mulch of straw or bark. Keep the mulch six inches away from the trunk.

Watering

Growing cherries need an inch of water per week, so water well if the weather is dry.

Fertilizing

Fertilize growing cherries each spring as fruits start to develop. Fertilize once more after the harvest. It's best to test the soil before adding fertilizer because too much can cause foliage growth at the expense of fruit.

Pruning

Prune tart and Nanking cherries when they are dormant in the winter. Minimally prune sweet cherries in late summer. Pruning gives the tree plenty of access to sunlight and helps prevent disease.

Cut away any suckers and new vertical limbs using hand pruners on mature trees. Remove crossed branches.

Cherry Pests and Diseases

The poor cherry tree is prone to several pests and diseases. Sweet cherry trees are particularly susceptible, while Nanking cherries are hardier than sweet or tart varieties. Don’t let this discourage you. Good management can go a long way to keeping your cherries in tip-top shape.

Aphids

Aphids attack cherry trees, and there is a specific variety – the black cherry aphid – that is particularly bothersome. Extreme infestations can stunt the growth in young trees. Encourage predators like lacewing larvae, lady beetles, and soldier beetles. Spray young trees with neem oil.

Peach Twig Borer

Peach twig borer moths attack stone fruits, disfiguring or ingesting fruit and killing twigs. Look out for wilting or stunted shoots in the springtime and larval damage in the fruits. The Pentalitomastix pyralis wasp is an effective predator. If you have a severe infestation, you may need to use an insecticide in the early summer when the first larvae generation emerges.

Western Cherry Fly

The cherry fruit fly starts life as a yellowish white grub which changes into a small fly that looks like a housefly. The fly makes a small hole in the fruit and lays its eggs, and the larvae hatch and make unsightly tunnel-like holes in the fruit. Traps are a good option for attracting and catching adults.

Spider Mites

Growing cherries are troubled by the European red mite and the two-spotted spider mite. These tiny arachnids feed on leaves, reducing photosynthesis. You'll notice red or yellowish dots and webbing on the leaves of your trees, particularly during the warm summer months. Spray mites off of trees with a strong blast of water and rake up the debris. Keep weeds away from your orchard.

Bacterial Canker

The bacterial canker virus attacks all stone fruit trees, causing cankers that can girdle a branch and destroy them. Look for spots of dark bark with a sunken center or gumming on the tree. It's particularly problematic in moist, cool areas. Make sure your tree has good drainage and sanitize your tools. Prune back diseased branches during the summer.

Brown Rot

Brown rot attacks stone fruit trees and can cause you to lose half of your fruit harvest. You'll first notice brown spots on your cherry blossoms, followed by fruits that shrivel up. Fruits will also be covered in a powdery, gray mold. Prune off diseased branches and destroy them. Make sure to sanitize tools to avoid spreading. Remove and dispose of any diseased fruits. Keep trees well pruned and spaced so that they get plenty of air circulation.

Cherry Leaf Spot

If you notice your growing cherry tree leaves have small purple and red spots all over them, you may have cherry leaf spot. This fungal disease primarily attacks trees in the midwest, eastern Canada and New England. Infestations can get so extreme that they will cause the trees to completely drop their leaves by mid-summer and kill off an entire tree.

If you have this fungus in your area, always rake up and destroy fallen leaves around your cherry trees. Add a layer of straw mulch after the raking is done. You may also need to apply a fungicide, though cherry leaf spot can develop resistance, so alternate between fungicide types. Apply fungicide in the two weeks after blossoming when cherry leaves open and repeat according to the manufacturer's recommendation.

Cherry Rust

Cherry rust is caused by a fungus that can cause leaves to drop prematurely, usually late in the season. For this reason, cherry rust isn't as big of a threat as some other diseases, because the harvest is generally completed by the time rust causes damage. You'll often first see cankers on growing cherry trees, followed by pale leaf spots. On the undersides of leaves, you'll see rust-like pustules. Control with a lime and sulfur fungicide.

Black Knot

Black knot is a widespread fungus that affects growing xfcherries and plums. It's easy to identify by its hard, uneven, black galls that wrap around the twigs and branches of the tree. Basically, it strangles the tree, stunting growth and stopping fruit production.

Controlling the disease begins with proper management like keeping the orchard area clean of fallen twigs and fruits. You can also use a dormant spray of neem oil. Neem can help inhibit the disease but won't kill it once it's established. Copper sprays will inhibit spore production.

If galls develop, remove them wearing gloves and being careful not to touch healthy parts of the tree. Burn the contaminated branches.

Powdery Mildew

Powdery mildew causes white spots on leaves and covers fruit in white mold. It starts in the spring with circular powdery spots on leaves. It's spread by moisture, so be sure to irrigate the soil, not the leaves of the tree. Keep trees well spaced and pruned to maintain good air circulation. Prune off root suckers, since powdery mildew favors suckers.

Verticillium Wilt

Verticillium wilt usually attacks 5-7 years after planting. In the early summer, young trees will have yellow leaves and withering growth. It can significantly reduce fruit yield. Luckily, healthy trees can generally fight off this disease, so fertilize plants, control weeds and keep them well watered. Remove any dead, dying or diseased branches to prevent vert from having a ready place to take hold.

Cherry Rasp Leaf

Cherry rasp leaf virus causes malformed leaves, usually on the lower half of the tree. Remove and destroy infected trees. Control weeds and purchase resistant varieties.

Sour Cherry Yellows

This virus spreads by pollen and grafting. It takes a few years after the tree is infected to see symptoms, though you will notice mottled yellow leaves in the first year. Eventually up to half of the leaves will drop from the trees and the tree will develop a willowy, thin growth habit. Yield will be reduced, though the fruits that do develop are usually healthy and edible. Buy from certified clean stock and avoid grafting or transferring pollen from infected trees. Thermotherapy has been effective in eliminating the virus.

Crown and Root Rot

This disease impacts the tree just below the soil surface or right above the surface. An infected tree will look generally unhealthy or a bit like it has fire blight. If you suspect you have it, dig from around the base of the tree to expose the root to look for rot. Avoid watering to the point where water pools around the tree. Make sure you have well-drained soil.

Birds

Birds are a major pest for cherries. You can deter them by planting mulberries and installing bird netting. Cover your trees as soon as the cherries begin to swell. Netting sometimes collapses in on the tree which allows the birds to pick at the cherries. Use bamboo or tall stakes to make a tent over the trees. Secure the tent to the ground so that the birds can't get underneath.

Another way to scare the birds away from growing cherries is by using a statue of an owl. You can even buy ones that make screeching noises. You will need to move this around the orchard periodically so that the birds don't realize it's fake.

Remember that birds are not all bad. Many species of birds are beneficial to have around the garden as they eat insects that devour our plants.

Companions for Cherries

When growing cherries, the following plants make good companions:

• Allium
• Marigold
• Spinach
• Garlic
• Onion
• Tansy
• Nasturtium
• Clover

Worst Companions:

• Potato
• Grass

Harvesting and Storing Cherries

Cherries are ready for harvest after they turn dark red, yellow or black, depending on the variety. The sugar content increases dramatically in the last week, and they won't ripen further once off the tree like some fruits, so do some taste testing to be sure you're getting them at the right time. If you see a ton of birds visiting your tree, it might be time to get picking. Rain will make ripe cherries split, so get them off the tree before a heavy rain.

Leave the stem intact on the fruits because that will help them store a little longer. They can be stored in the refrigerator for about a week in perforated plastic bags. Don't wash them before storage.

If you have a standard cherry tree, you'll be getting a lot of fruit. That means it's time to start making the usual pies, preserves, bounce, and cake. You can also get creative and make cherry barbecue sauce, salsa and relish. If you can't use it all up, try canning your cherries. You can also freeze fresh cherries. Wash and pit the fruits and lay them in a single layer on a baking sheet. Freeze through. Transfer them to a freezer bag.

Now that you have the tools and know-how, it's time to get planting. Share your favorite cherry recipes in the comments.

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