Homesteading Alliance

Know what to look for when it comes to corn diseases.

Sweet corn takes up more garden space than most crops and it’s also fairly demanding in terms of moisture and nutrients. The incomparable taste of freshly-picked corn, though, is enough to encourage gardeners to continue to grow it.

Native to Central America, sweet corn (Zea mays) has been cultivated in North America for thousands of years. This annual garden plant is generally disease and pest resistant, but if problems do take hold in your corn patch, the consequences can be devastating. Since corn grows so fast, it’s hard to control diseases and pests with chemicals.

Corn must be planted in rich, fertile soil and in full sun. Amend the soil with aged compost or manure several months before planting. Plant corn in blocks containing at least four rows so the wind can pollinate it efficiently.

Plant the seeds two or three weeks after the last expected frost. Corn won’t germinate in wet, cold soils and does best in soils that are 60 degrees or warmer.

Plant seeds 1 to 1 ½ inches deep and 3 inches apart. Thin the stalks to 18 inches apart when they stand 3 inches tall. Sidedress corn plants with a nitrogen-heavy fertilizer every six weeks during the growing season and keep the soil evenly moist. Use a soaker hose system rather than overhead sprinklers. If water splashes on the tassels at the time of pollination, the ears won’t pollinate well and will have fewer kernels.

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Sweet Corn Diseases

Corn smut

Probably the most common corn disease. This fungal disease lives in the soil and causes unsightly gray or white growths, or growths, to form on the ears, leaves and stalks. In Central America, the galls are considered a culinary delicacy, but most gardeners find them unappealing at best. To control corn smut, remove the galls when they’re small and immature. Place them in a sealed plastic bag and discard. Work carefully so you don’t cause the spores to spread to other corn plants.

The fungus that causes corn smut can live in the soil for two years, so rotate crops and avoid planting corn where you’ve previously had problems. Corn smut is more prevalent during periods of high heat and moisture. Plants grown too closely together are also more susceptible.

Rust

Although it rarely causes serious damage. Plants affected with rust might have orange or red spots on the leaves. The spots are usually temporary and disappear as the plants mature. Rust occurs most often in cool, moist weather.

Stewart’s Wilt

A viral disease spread by flea beetles. The main symptom is brownish streaks in the leaves that eventually spread to stunt or kill the entire plant. Once infected, corn plants almost always succumb to this disease. There are no chemical controls. To minimize problems, rotate crops because the flea beetles overwinter in the soil and spread the disease when they feed on young plants. Control the flea beetles with rotenone or spread agricultural lime or wood ash on the soil.

Seed Rot Disease

This corn disease is caused by soil-borne fungi. Seeds might not germinate and any emerging seedlings are stunted. Seed rot diseases are most common in cold, wet soils. Seeds germinate slowly in these soils, so they’re more at risk of exposure to the fungus. Plant high-quality corn seeds only after the soil has warmed in the spring. If you’ve had problems in the past, consider buying corn seeds that have been treated with a fungicide.

Root Rot

Like seed rot disease, this corn disease is most common in wet soils. As the roots rot, the corn stalks may also begin to rot, causing the entire stalks to fall over and die. To prevent root rot, plant corn seeds in well-draining soil that has been amended with compost. Space corn plants so air circulates freely and use soaker hoses instead of overhead sprinklers. If your soil is very heavy, consider using raised beds.

Southern corn leaf blight

Blight causes bleached or discolored spots on both the corn ears and the leaves. Pull up and discard infected corn plants. Rotate crops and clean up the garden immediately after harvest.

Insect Problems

Nematodes

These insects are microscopic roundworms that feed on the roots of plants in the garden. The first sign of nematodes is usually stunted growth and pale leaves. Pull up the plants and you’ll see nodules or growths on the roots. A soil test can confirm the presence of nematodes. If you’ve had a problem with nematodes, be sure to rotate crops and clean up the garden well. In some cases, you might have to solarize the soil. To solarize the soil, spread a clear sheet of plastic over it during the hottest months of summer. Secure the plastic so it sits tightly over the soil and leave it in place for six weeks. The heat generated by the plastic destroys any nematodes in the soil. Unfortunately, it also destroys beneficial microbes. Add compost and aged manure to the soil after solarizing to rebuild it.

Corn earworms

Unfortunately, these are a common pest in the corn patch. Adults lay their eggs on the corn silk. Once the larvae hatch, they crawl into the corn ears and begin feeding. You can handpick corn earworms and drop them in a bucket of soapy water or try putting a few drops of mineral oil on the tops of the ears. The mineral oil runs into the ears, covers the earworms and smothers them.

Corn borers

These insects are caterpillars that tunnel through the stalks and ears, causing extensive damage. Walk through the garden frequently and handpick any you see. Drop them in soapy water.

Raccoons

Along with squirrels, and crows are definitely on the most wanted list when it comes to pests in the corn patch. Raccoons and squirrels, in particular, can strip all the ears off the plants in just one or two nights. To thwart them, don’t plant corn near fences, trees, or buildings. Squirrels can jump from these surfaces directly on the corn plants and knock them down. Plant squash underneath the cornstalks. Raccoons and squirrels don’t like to walk across the prickly vines. Some gardeners spread crumpled aluminum foil on the garden soil. You can also use motion detecting lights and sprinkler systems, or a well-trained dog.

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Growing lettuce is one of my favorite gardening endeavors because the plants grow quickly and with a minimum of fuss, which is extremely rewarding. There are also a plethora of different lettuce varieties – you can find one for every season and climate zone. Add some plastic or a cold frame, and you can extend your lettuce season all year long, even in challenging climates.

Lettuce isn't just about salads, although your fresh-picked lettuce varieties will make you swear off boring lettuce from the store. In the kitchen, the leafy green is great on sandwiches, wilted in soups, braised or grilled, and it's fabulous in smoothies.

Lettuce does well in raised beds or a traditional garden. Have you been looking into trying hydroponics? Lettuce is a great plant to start with. It's also a smart option if you want to teach kids about gardening.

Whatever your goals, climate, or cooking needs, there's a lettuce out there for you.

Lettuce Varieties

There are dozens of lettuce types, and they fall into five categories: Batavian, butterhead, iceberg, loose leaf, and romaine. Each type has varying growing needs and characteristics.

Let's take a look at the different types of lettuce and some excellent varieties in each category!

Batavian Lettuce Varieties

Also known as summer crisp or French crisp, Batavian lettuces are ideal for summer growing as they have a high tolerance for heat. Seeds need a cool temperature for germination, so start them early or indoors in a cold room and then transplant outdoors.

Concept

Concept is an excellent Batavian type with a beautiful flower petal shape. It has a high heat tolerance, making it ideal for the deep south. At the baby stage, the leaves are open, and they close as the plant matures. The taste is sweet and juicy. It has pretty green leaves and takes 51 days to mature.

Nevada

Nevada is a hot state and, unsurprisingly, its namesake lettuce can handle the heat. The ruffled green leaves have a subtle nutty flavor. You can harvest individual leaves or let it head up. This open-pollinated variety takes 48 days to mature.

Pablo

Pablo is a large Batavian lettuce that forms loose heads with large upright rosettes. The leaves have bronze outer edges, which makes a striking contrast when used as a base under other ingredients, such as a fruit salad. The taste is sweet, and it's slow to bolt. It's an heirloom that comes from Seed Savers Exchange. It matures in 62 days.

Butterhead Lettuce Varieties

There are two types of butterhead lettuces.

The first one, Boston lettuce, has loose, round shaped heads. If you take out the interior leaves, they make a perfect “cup” for grilled chicken, stir-fried veggies, or shrimp cocktail.

The second, bibb lettuce, is smaller with soft leaves. It tends to mature earlier than Boston and has dark leaves with red edges. Bibb lettuce's tiny round heads are sweet and tender. They're often grown as mini-heads.

Nancy

Nancy is a regular in my garden because it's so reliable. This large Boston type has thick, medium-sized green leaves that form a tight head. The taste is sweet and buttery. This one was popular with shoppers when I did regular farmer's markets. It holds well in the field and takes 52 days to mature.

Sylvesta

I like to plant Sylvesta for a fall garden. It loves cool weather and shorter days. This hardy Boston variety has an excellent flavor and produces big heads. The outer green leaves blanch the inner leaves giving it superb taste that chefs love. It's disease resistant and takes 52 days to mature.

Deer Tongue

My favorite Bibb lettuce is the heirloom type known as deer tongue. Deer tongue has a unique shape; it forms a loose head with slightly pointed leaves that resemble, as the name suggests, a tongue. This type also has an excellent flavor, and the baby heads are ready in only 28 days. It reaches full size in 46 days.

North Pole

I used to grow winter marvel exclusively as a hardy bibb greenhouse winter lettuce. Now, I am a big fan of North Pole. It's extremely cold hardy and has even survived Zone 4 Maine winter outdoors. It has a mild, sweet taste but will bolt and become bitter in warm weather.

Iceberg Lettuce Varieties

Iceberg is also known as crisphead lettuce. It has a reputation as the boring variety that often gives lettuce a bad name. That's undeserved, in my opinion. Homegrown varieties taste better than the stuff you know from the store, and the refreshing crunch is perfect in the right recipe. Overall, I admit it’s at the bottom of my list of favorite lettuce varieties, but it deserves a spot in any garden.

Webb’s Wonderful

If you are going to grow iceberg lettuce, I think Webb’s wonderful is the one. Coming from Seed Savers Exchange, it was introduced in 1890 by Clarence Webb in England. It has a buttery, mild flavor that will make you think it’s a butterhead, but with the crispness of an iceberg. It tolerates the heat well without getting bitter. Icebergs take a bit longer to grow in general, and this type matures in 72 days.

Jester

Jester doesn't look like the typical crisphead lettuce, with its compact-yet-frilly leaves that feature stunning maroon splotches. The flavor is well balanced, and it has a crunchy, juicy texture. It's also a heat tolerant variety that is slow to bolt. It matures in 60 days.

Lollo

Lollo lettuces are great for garnishes because of their deep frilly leaves. Chefs refer to it as coral lettuce. The leaves can be picked independently or allowed to form heads, which grow into a beautiful rosette shape. It matures in about 60 days.

Dark Red Lollo Rossa

Dark red lollo rossa is my favorite iceberg lettuce. The heavily frilled leaves are green around the stem. The tips are a vibrant, dark maroon color. It holds its color well even in cloudy weather. It can become bitter, so cut leaves frequently. This type looks impressive when plated. It's slower growing and takes 53 days to mature.

Ilema

Ilema is a full-sized green leafed lollo variety that has pretty, frilly leaves. The plant grows in a uniform shape, making it ideal for markets. This open pollinated variety has good disease resistance and takes 55 days to mature.

Revolution

Revolution has a beautiful deep red color with intensely frilly leaves. I love it because the thick, crunchy texture “beefs” up a salad. It prefers cool spring or fall weather and matures in 48 days.

Loose Leaf Lettuce Varieties

Leaf lettuce comes in red, green and oakleaf. The loose leaves grow from a single stalk rather than in a compact head like other types. They're best cut as individual leaves and are great for salads and making wilted lettuce.

Loose leaf lettuces are particularly easy and quick to grow. They come in a variety of colors and textures, so plant several varieties to make your salad pop.

Black-Seeded Simpson

My favorite loose leaf variety is black seeded Simpson, which is a prolific heirloom. It's a large plant that reaches 16 inches across when allowed to grow to full size. This type does best in early spring. The soft green leaves have slightly jagged edges, which are attractive in salads. It matures in 28 days for baby heads and 46 days for full size.

Red Salad Bowl

Red salad bowl has a beautiful vibrant red color that's an eye-catcher in any salad. The oak leaves are shaped in compact frilly rosettes and have a wonderful creamy flavor. Ideal for spring and fall production since this type doesn't like hot weather. It has excellent disease resistance and matures in 48 days.

Romaine Lettuce Varieties

Romaine lettuce grows in a column shape thanks to the long leaves that grow upwards to form a head. The midribs give it a crunchy texture. It has a slightly bitter taste and is fabulous for Caesar salads.

Monte Carlo

I love the mini lettuces, and Monte Carlo makes a great fully developed mini head. You can also let it grow to full size. It's a dark green lettuce with a cream colored center. Monte Carlo has a delicious flavor and matures in just 46 days. In addition, it's resistant to downy mildew.

Fusion

Are you looking for a romaine variety that will stand up to the summer heat? Fusion is your answer. It's slow bolting and doesn't lose its mild flavor in the heat. It is resistant to corky root and lettuce mosaic virus and matures in 55 days.

Jericho

Jericho is another of my favorites (I told you I liked to grow lettuce – right?). It was bred in Israel’s hot desert climate so can really take the heat. This is a large lettuce that can reach two feet tall and can weigh three pounds if given rich organic soil. The upright leaves are crispy and sweet. It has good disease resistance and matures in 60 days.

Rouge d’Hiver

Rouge d’hiver is a French heirloom that has definitely stood the test of time. It does well as a winter lettuce under some cover on my Kentucky farm, but it doesn't like the heat. It has an excellent flavor and is ready in 50 days.

Salvius

Salvius will tolerate the heat better and has a more open habit than most romaine lettuces. It has a nice crisp texture and matures in 58 days.

Lettuce Seed Mixes

OK – I confess: lettuce mixes are addicting and I love them. In the early spring, I will plant several short rows in my greenhouse. In thirty days, I have an instant salad of delicious baby greens. The following varieties are my favorites.

Allstar Gourmet Mix

The Allstar Gourmet Lettuce Mix from Johnny’s Seeds is one of my favorites. It includes a mix of loose-leaf, oakleaf, romaine and lollo in green and red varieties.

Summer Lettuce Mix

Summer is a difficult time for lettuce connoisseurs. Fedco’s Summer Lettuce Mix is a great combination of heat tolerant lettuce.

The Bottom Line

Lettuce comes in a great variety of textures, colors, and hardiness. To figure out if a specific variety will work in your area, do your homework, read the descriptions, and don't be afraid to play around.

I grow lettuce throughout the year by planting every two or three weeks in the spring and again in the fall for a continuous harvest. That way I am never without fresh salads and sandwich fillers.

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Across Africa, South America, and the East there are variations of a basic flour water mix used to make ‘bread’ in a dry pan to be eaten with traditional stews. In Ethiopia injera is the flatbread made from teff (a fine grain that varies in color from white to dark brown) and fIour and left to ferment until a yeast forms after around 4 days.

Injera becomes both a plate on which the stew is placed or can be served alongside the typically spicy chicken stew that is the national dish of Ethiopians. Lebanese Mountain bread, although a flat bread also uses yeast to get a more doughy texture.

Moroccan flatbread is probably closest to the Indian chapatti, which is also made without yeast or fermentation, however, the Moroccan flatbread is slightly different in that there are some spices added.

As you cook your Moroccan flatbreads in a dry pan – no oil added – your kitchen will smell delightful as the aromas of the cinnamon, cumin, and coriander are released.

Moroccan Flatbread Recipe Yield: 6 large flatbreads Cook Time: 12 minutes Total Time: 12 minutes Print

Ingredients

• 3 cups flour
• 1 teaspoon dried cumin powder
• 1 teaspoon cinnamon powder
• 1 teaspoon coriander (cilantro) powder
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1 ½ cups lukewarm water

Instructions

1. Mix the dried spices with the flour in a large bowl.
2. Make a well in the center and add the water a little at a time incorporating the flour, until you have a dough ball. I find that one and a third cups of water is usually sufficient.
3. Using floured hands knead the dough on a floured bread board until it is smooth and elastic – this should take about 5 minutes.
4. Return to the bowl to rest for about half an hour and cover the bowl with a clean cloth.
5. Divide the dough ball into around 6 pieces, pinching off lumps of dough with the fingers.
6. Roll each piece into a ball then roll out into a circle on a floured board.
7. Heat a skillet and fry one at a time for around 1 minute each side on a hot stove, turning once they start to puff up.

Nutrition Information:

Yield: 6 Serving Size: 1 flatbread
Amount Per Serving: Calories: 228 © The Homesteading Hippy Cuisine: North African

Serve the Moroccan flatbreads warm with a lamb tagine, or any hearty stew, tearing off pieces to soak up all those last delicious bits of the gravy.
They can also be used to serve with eggs at breakfast time, mince, or can even serve as a wrap with chicken and various salad ingredients at lunchtime.

I must admit, when preparing the ones for today’s recipe I rolled one up like a pancake after spreading it with butter, some flaked almonds, and honey! It was delicious, warm and aromatic – those spices made all the difference.

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Harvesting Mulberries is a pretty easy task.

Fruit-loving foragers unite! Just when you think you have tried all berries possible, there always seems to be one more to spark some interest. Do you remember ever singing about going “’round the mulberry bush” as a young child? Well, these berries are more than just part of a youthful song. Those berries are real, and they are perfect for a refreshing summer snack, jams, pies and all sorts of other baking and cooking ideas. Let’s take a look at this tasty berry.

About Mulberries

These berries look a lot like large blackberries, but mulberries grow on trees – despite what the song says — instead of bushes. It only takes a few years from seed for Mulberry trees to mature into a good, fruitful tree.

There are black, red and white mulberries. When ripe, red mulberries turn into a dark purple or black color. The white type turn from green to their white shade when they are ready to be picked. Black mulberries turn from green to black.

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Range for red mulberry harvesting

The red mulberry is native to North America, although it is mostly found in areas such as the Niagara Escarpment now and is classified in Canada as endangered (although common in the US). The black mulberry is native to Eurasia, and the white variation comes from Asia where silkworms eat mulberry leaves.

Mulberries have two types of leaves, and both can be found on a single tree. The leaves are classified as lobed and unlobed. Mulberries are similar to blackberries in taste, but yet still very different. Mulberries aren’t as tart as blackberries, but rather sweet. They are full of vitamin C and iron. They boost the immune system with phytonutrients and carbohydrates.

Where to Find Them

You will be able to find mulberries at the end of spring or beginning of summer. Remember, mulberries grow on trees. These trees can usually be found at the edge of a wood, in neighborhoods and along fences, usually near water such as a creek. They seem to grow anywhere, even in places other plants won’t.

Mulberries are aggressive and tireless growers, especially in moist, rich soil and lots of sun. They like the sun.

Mulberry trees can become quite large over time. Although white and red mulberries are found in the United States, white mulberries are far more rare.

Harvesting Mulberries

As with all types of plant or berry foraging, try to locate fruit away from busy roads or places where chemicals have been sprayed. Plants and trees near such areas will absorb the car fumes and dust. You will want the healthiest and most organic food possible.

Range for white mulberry harvesting

The fruit on the trees will ripen at different times, so you can gather fruit regularly throughout the season. Mulberries are very fragile and make traveling with them very difficult. They are better to eat right away, after washing.

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Picking by hand is still the best way to get the fruit. Be aware: The skin of Mulberries is very thin and you will most likely end up with stains on your hands and fingers (and anything else you touch). Another way you can harvest mulberries is to place a tarp under the tree and gently, but firmly, shake the branches with the ripest fruit. Mulberries will fall readily when they are ripe. Gather up the tarp and place berries in a container. Pick one that will be easy to carry, and rinse the berries when you get home. If presentation of the food is important, then take off the small green stems before eating (although you can eat them, too).

Note: Make sure you only pick mature fruit, as mulberries can act as a laxative when they are not ripe and can be slightly toxic.

Storing Mulberries

Remember the thin skin on the berries? Take care when transporting mulberries home after harvesting. Their own weight can crush those underneath, which can create a big mess if you aren’t ready. Keep this in mind when you are planning harvesting containers.

You can store mulberries at room temperature or in the refrigerator. They only will last a few days at room temperature, and up to a week in the fridge.

Doesn’t just reading about mulberries make you want to grab a basket and spend a day searching for the sweet jewels of nature? Why not make foraging for mulberries part of a family adventure, and enjoy all the yummy bounty you find? The unique look and taste of the mulberry quickly makes this fruit an absolute favorite. You’ll be able to make up a new verse to the childhood mulberry song, maybe one about how good the berries taste!

Do you have any mulberry foraging tips? Share them in the section below:

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This hot German potato salad recipe gives a healthy twist to a classic side dish. We also give tips to help you pick the best potatoes for potato salad to maximize flavor and nutrition. 5 Tips to Pick the Best Potatoes for Potato Salad Choose waxy potatoes. Small fingering potatoes or new young potatoes hold […]

The post Easy German Potato Salad (Plus 5 Tips to Pick the Best Potatoes) appeared first on Common Sense Home.

Starting a beautiful and productive perennial garden doesn't happen on accident. Gardeners need to plan, prepare the soil, and learn appropriate planting practices to establish that gorgeous dream garden. It's worth the effort. The best part about starting a perennial garden is that after you get it going, your plants will continue to grow each year without too much maintenance.

I'll be honest; I love gardening, but with a few kids, it's a lot of work. I want the look of a lovely garden, and I want to be able to produce veggies and herbs each year without hours of maintenance. Perennials are the perfect answer.

Perennials don't need to be replaced each year; some can grow for decades! The plants die back in colder climates during the winter and then regrow in the spring. If you happen to live in a warmer region, perennials grow year-round, producing endless greenery or blossoms.

If you’re ready to get started on your perennial garden, here's what you need to know.

Pick Your Plants

Before you start preparing for a perennial garden, you need to decide what plants you want to grow. Think about where you live and then consider its cold hardiness, how much sun is required, and the soil requirements of the plants you're considering.

You also need to think about the spacing and the appearance of your garden, along with your goals. Do you want low-growing ground covers or taller plants to add height to your space? Do you want a mix of veggies, herbs or flowers? It’s up to you what you want to grow.

The best perennials for you are the ones that thrive in your area’s growing conditions. Also, you need ones that will grow well in your yard. Don’t plan to grow hostas if you don't have much shade or if you live in a hot southern state.

There are too many perennials to list here, but to give you an idea about where to start, here are some favorites you should consider.

Flowering Perennials:

• Aster
• Daylily
• Black-eyed Susan
• Hellebore
• Balloon Flower
• Clematis
• Daisy
• Delphinium
• Hydrangea
• Peony
• Phlox
• Sedum
• Bleeding Heart

Perennial Herbs:

• Lavender
• Thyme
• Sorrel
• Mint
• Chives
• Winter savory
• Oregano
• Echinacea
• Fennel
• Sage
• Tarragon
• Yarrow

Perennial Vegetables:

• Asparagus
• Rhubarb
• Artichoke
• Horseradish
• Watercress
• Radicchio
• Jerusalem Artichoke
• Sorrel
• Wild Leeks
• Egyptian Walking Onions
• Kale
• Capers

5 Tips for Picking Perennial Plants

For many of us, when we pick plants to grow, we don’t make deliberate choices. At least, I know I don’t! I look at the photos in the catalog, and I’m suckered into purchasing based on pictures. The beautiful blooms at the nursery beg me to buy them, and sometimes I can't say no. But that’s not how we should pick perennials.

As I said before, the best perennial plants are the ones that are going to do well in your climate and planting location. Here are some tips for picking the right ones.

1. Consider Your Site

Perennials live longer and will thrive more if they're planted in a location they love. Think about your soil; is it sandy or heavy? Do you have a sunny or shady spot? What is your pH level? Take time to figure out the specifics of your location to determine the right plants for your site. It will save you stress in the long run.

2. Think About Your Hardiness Zone

The plants you pick need to be hardy to your growing zone, or they'll die quickly, which defeats the purpose of creating a perennial garden. Choosing a plant that can't handle the frost when you live in an area with harsh winters will spell disaster.

To avoid this, pick plants that do well in your zone. Some perennials won’t act as perennials in your area if you live in the wrong region for the plant. Of course, you can always take the gamble and see what happens. Gardening is all about experimentation.

3. What You’ll Use The Most

If you want to grow perennial herbs and vegetables, pick what you’ll use. If you despise asparagus, planting them seems like a silly idea. Consider what you enjoy.

For example, I love rhubarb; who doesn’t love strawberry rhubarb jam and a sour cream rhubarb pound cake? Delicious! However, I’m not a fan of artichokes, so I don’t devote space in my garden for them.

The same goes for flowers. If you don't love the look of black-eyed Susans, don't plant them.

4. Desires for Your Garden

Do you want different colors and heights in your garden? Too much of the same color or height could be boring, while too many colors or plant varieties might be visually overwhelming. Only you can decide what you want for your garden.

5. Bloom Time

Few perennials bloom for more than a few weeks each year. The rest of the time, the plants are green. While a blooming perennial might be in flower for two weeks or as long as three months, you'll inevitably have a long period without blossoms.

To deal with this fact, try to vary the types of plants you have so that something is blooming all season long. It's also essential that you like the leaf form and foliage texture of the plants you pick. Don't select a plant that you think is ugly when it isn't blooming.

The Best Time to Plant Perennials

Perennials can be planted any time throughout the growing season. You can plant them until the ground starts to freeze, but the best results come when you plant in either the spring or the fall.

Most gardeners plant perennials in the spring. Your local nursery should offer tons of different options you choose from that are ripe for putting in the soil at the beginning of the growing season. Plant in the spring to give roots time to acclimate and get established. By the time the summer arrives, your plants will be thriving.

You can also put plants in the ground in the fall. The soil is easy to work, and it's warm from the summer heat, so roots can quickly establish. Plants put in the ground in the fall have a head start on spring growth. You can also find a screaming bargain at nurseries because the growing season is winding down.

Preparing the Soil for a Perennial Garden

Prepare the garden bed you selected for your perennials one to two weeks before you plant. Remove all weeds and grass from the bed; a tiller or garden fork can turn over the top 12 inches of soil to make things easier.

After you remove the grass and weeds, spread 2 inches or more of compost or rotted manure over the bed. Mix that into the top few inches of the loosened soil, blending well. Adding amendments before planting will ensure you'll get a slow release of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorous over the next few months.

How to Plant Perennials

Planting perennials is pretty straight-forward. Dig holes slightly deeper and twice as wide as the pot that the plant is currently residing in. The container should have some information about the recommended spacing, but the average perennial needs 12-18 inches between plants. If you're growing taller perennials, go for 18-36 inches of space, and small plants only need 6-12 inches apart.

Fill the hole slightly with amended soil so that the plant will sit level with the ground. Take the plant out of the container and put it into the hole. Don’t hold the plant by the stalks; you can damage the plant. Fill the hole back in with amended soil and pat it down. Soak the ground thoroughly after planting.

Taking Care of Your Perennial Garden

Compared to annuals, perennials are a breeze to grow in the garden. They require little fertilizer and little maintenance, so they’re great for anyone, whether they have a green or black thumb. That said, your plants will do better if you give them some care. When properly maintained, perennial plants can live around 20 years; that’s a great reason to pay attention to their needs.

Mulching

Mulching your perennials is vital whether you plant in spring or fall. Adding mulch evens out the soil temperature during the winter to help prevent frost and helps to keep the soil cool in the summer. Mulching also helps with frost heave, which is when the soil freezes and repeatedly thaws, which can push plants out of the ground.

After you plant your new perennials, spread a 2-inch layer of mulch over the soil in the bed. Make sure you keep it 1-2 inches away from the base of the plant to avoid diseases.

Watering

In the beginning, most perennials are thirsty plants because they’re busy establishing a robust root system. So, during the first week, you need to water daily. Then, keep them well-watered for the first month.

After that, your perennials don’t need to be watered as frequently. When you do water them, do so deeply.

Fertilizing

Perennials do need to be fertilized, but they require less than some other plants. They need occasional boosts to help their growth, but adding too much fertilizer encourages leafy vegetation rather than flowering.

If you correctly amended the soil when you planted your perennials, there should be no need to fertilize that first year. In the following years, a few shovels of manure or 2-3 pounds of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet in the early spring is sufficient. Fertilizing in the spring encourages new growth.

You can also apply an additional pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer in midsummer as the growth starts to slow down. If you watch your plants, you should notice light green foliage or slow growth, both of which indicate that your plants need a boost of nutrients.

Pinching, Pruning and Deadheading

Some perennials like asters, phlox, and salvias benefit from being pinched back. Pinching leads to a bushier plant that produces more blooms. It’s a simple process; all you have to do is pinch the growing tips between your thumb and forefinger once or twice during the late spring.

Also, don't forget to deadhead plants. Some plants drop their dead flowers, but others hold onto them for months. Removing dead flowers makes your plants look better and helps to stimulate reblooming.

Finally, some perennials benefit from regular pruning. Get to know the pruning and deadheading requirements of your plants.

Dividing Your Perennial Plants in the Fall

In the fall, consider dividing your perennials every 3-5 years. For many plants, the center tends to die as the plant gets larger. Dividing not only tackles this problem but gives you even more perennials you can plant elsewhere.

Here’s how you divide your perennials.

1. Dig up the plant and divide in two if desired. Remove all of the dead parts of the plant.
2. Discard the dead parts.
3. Replant the healthy parts of the plant.

See, it's effortless! You can divide these plants into small groups, giving you a way to add more plants to your garden or to trade with friends and family.

Starting Your Perennial Garden

While starting a new perennial garden seems like a lot of thought and foreplanning, it means less maintenance and care in the long-term. Adding perennial plants to your garden will save you money and time, two resources everyone can use more of.

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