Homesteading Alliance

Are you heading out of town for a few days and need a way to keep your plants watered? Would you like to find an economical DIY option?

I have you covered! I’m going to bring you some of the easiest and most affordable DIY automatic watering systems available.

I’ll also share a few of the cheaper store-bought options too, in case you don’t have time to DIY before your big vacation.

I struggle with taking vacations because I know the amount of work I’ve put into my property. Sadly, it isn’t the larger gardens which usually suffer from your absence because they have more soil to pull from.

Instead, it’s the window boxes, hanging baskets, smaller gardens, and house plants which suffer. Keep your smaller plants from feeling the strain of your absence by using one of these easy DIY automatic watering systems:

1. Plastic Bag Automatic Watering Systems

Let’s say you’re working on a tight budget and don’t wish to spend a fortune on a self-watering set-up for only a few houseplants.

There comes the point when you must ask yourself, is it cheaper to let my plants die and repurchase them when I get back?

Thankfully, you won’t have to make this horrible decision with this unique self-watering idea. Fill a Ziplock bag with water and seal it.

Thread a needle with a piece of string. Hang the bag over the plant and insert the needle into the bottom of the bag.

The thread should be placed in the soil. As the soil dries, the string will serve as a wick and distribute water from the bag.

2. DIY Olla

Have you ever heard of an olla (pronounced ol-ya?) They’re usually unglazed clay pots which are buried in the ground near your crops.

Because they’re unglazed, when the soil is dry, water seeps through the walls of the clay pot and gives the plants as much or little water as they need to prosper.

This sounds like a great idea, but you’re looking for something less expensive than purchasing a clay pot for each house plant, outdoor planter, or small garden.

You can easily make your own ollas with a small plastic container (such as a milk jug), a plastic water bottle, or even PVC pipe. Drill holes in the sides and bottom of the plastic container.

Place it in the ground or planter with only enough sticking out of the soil to give you access to fill it with water. When the plant needs water, the moisture will seep through the holes.

3. Above Ground Water Bottle

If you’ve gardened for any length of time, you’ve most likely seen watering globes. They can be purchased (and we’ll talk about this a little further down in the article), but they can also be made.

Save your plastic water bottles or two-liter soda bottles with their lids. Clean the bottles thoroughly before using them for this project.

Drill small holes into the lid of the bottle and cut the bottom portion of the bottle off

Turn the bottle upside down to where the lid is pressed into the soil and make sure it has enough soil around it to support the bottle.

Fill the bottle with water, and it will gently drip water into the soil as needed.

4. DIY Attached Olla System

Do you have ollas already or have you decided to create a few automatic watering systems from the idea above?

Yet, you’re concerned they’ll run out of water before you return. You can create a DIY automatic watering system which will refill your ollas as well.

Bury the ollas in the planters or your garden. Have a freestanding water source such as a rainwater collection barrel or even a five-gallon bucket filled with water.

You can use drip irrigation emitters to run to each of the ollas. The water source will gently drip the water into the ollas and help to ensure your plants don’t go without water, but they shouldn’t be overwatered either with this type of set-up.

5. DIY Wicking System

This idea is ideal for those with numerous houseplants, and you’re concerned you’ll come home to nothing more than dried up twigs.

Place a pot of water on a stool and run a wicking material from the pot to each house plant. Place the material into the soil.

The soil will pull water from the wick, which will absorb water from the pots. This will help ensure when you come home, your plants will be as happy and healthy as they were before you left.

6. Hydroponics

Are you someone who travels frequently, but you still wish to grow a garden? If not being home to water regularly makes you feel as though gardening couldn’t be for you, consider hydroponic gardening.

It’s a style of gardening where there’s no soil. Instead, plants grow in a nutrient-rich liquid solution. Hydroponics is an investment and does require a great deal of studying.

Though it has been around for quite some time, it’s different than most other styles of gardening.

Hydroponics could also work for the gardener who likes to take summer vacations. Instead of fretting over how to get water to your plants automatically when you’re gone, consider a different gardening method.

7. DIY Self-Watering Grow Table

Are you short on space for a garden and now finding you don’t have a way to water the plants you grow?

Have you considered a salad table? They’re fantastic little tables which are basically a container garden on legs.

Yet, other tables are deeper and can sustain larger plants. Some tables are even self-watering which would lessen your workload and make it feasible for you to be gone for longer periods when necessary.

8. Watering Globes

If you’re anything like me, you’re a busy person and tend to get overwhelmed when you’re planning a trip.

It seems there’s a ton of items on the to-do list to prepare to leave. This leads to some of the smaller items slipping through my grasp until the last minute.

One of the smaller items on the list could be how to water your houseplants while you’re away. If you don’t have time to DIY a system, consider purchasing watering globes.

You fill the globes with water, shove them into the soil, and let them do their job while you’re away. Not to mention, they look pretty too.

9. Wine Bottle Watering System

Do you enjoy a good bottle of wine from time to time? Do you make your own wine? If you fall in either of these categories, chances are you have leftover wine bottles.

Instead of tossing them in the garbage or the recycling bin, utilize them to water your plants. Place a screw top lid on the top of the wine bottle.

Drill holes into the lid and fill the wine bottle with water. Place the bottle, neck first, into the soil. As the soil needs water, it will seep through the holes of the bottle.

This will put your excess wine bottles to good use and keep your plants well-watered without daily watering by you.

10. Watering Spikes

If you’d prefer purchasing automatic watering systems but don’t want to spend an arm and leg, you should consider watering spikes.

These spikes work well with two-liter plastic bottles, water bottles, and wine bottles. If you have the bottle but didn’t keep the lids on hand, consider purchasing the watering spikes.

They slide into the bottle and provide the suction necessary to keep the water in the container.

However, they have a nozzle which gently drips water into your plants, keeping them moist without overwatering the plants.

You can purchase plastic watering spikes or terra cotta watering spikes. The terra cotta allows the water to be dispersed through the walls of the spikes.

Yet, the plastic spikes perform a dripping action to keep the plants watered adequately.

You now have 10 different options for frugal and (mostly) DIY automatic watering systems. Hopefully, this will lessen your load when watering your plants and give you peace of mind when you’re traveling.

What I’d suggest is to pick one of these automatic watering systems that suit you, and set it up long before your departure. Monitor it to check it’s efficiency, and then you can go on holiday with true peace of mind. With the right automatic watering set-up, your plants should thrive.

I've been a culinary herb gardener for most of my adult life. For the past few years, though, I've been expanding beyond herbs and mastering the art of growing spices.

To me, spices are a bit more challenging than herbs because you have to grow the plants longer to get a harvest. Many times, it's the flower buds or seeds that are used as a spice. Whereas, most culinary herbs are made from the leaf parts of the plants before they flower. That means, when you grow spices, you actually get to see your plants flower before you have to start harvesting.

In the case of growing poppies for seeds, the flowers and the seed pods are by far the most beautiful parts of the plants. Growing poppies specifically for the spice is a wonderful way to add to both your spice collection and beautify your homestead garden!

The History of Poppies

Poppies have a long and colorful history. Early references of using this plant as a medicinal drug date back to Egypt in 3400 B.C. Back then, it was referred to as something that roughly translates into the “joy plant”.

Over the ages, the primary use for poppies has been as a pleasure enhancer or pain reducer. From the opium wars and smoking dens of the 1800s to its condoned use as a medical pain reliever in the form of morphine, poppies have been both revered for their utility and despised for their destructiveness throughout history.

Today, we are facing a poppy-related, opioid crisis that is likely to reverberate through our future history for years to come. This colorful past and present make growing poppies something of a dilemma for gardeners.

Legal Warning!

Poppies and their seed pods can be stunningly beautiful in a garden setting. You can harvest the poppy seeds to use in recipes like lemon poppy seed muffins or on top of homemade “everything” bagels. The seeds can be pressed for oil. Plus, the seed pods are also beautiful in flower arrangements.

If you happen to be of the “prepper” mindset, then growing a regular crop of poppies may also be attractive for other reasons. For example, having a natural and potent pain reliever at the ready in an emergency could be useful.

Be warned though! In the US, growing poppies, particularly in large quantities, can be a bit legally challenging.

As long as you are growing poppies for their beauty or to collect the seeds for cooking, you can probably get away with growing them on your homestead.

However, since some parts of the plant are used for illegal drug production, your motives might be called into question if you grow too many of these plants. (Or if you happen to have a colorful history with the law!)

With that legal warning behind us, let's talk about growing poppies for their edible seeds.

Poppy Varieties

Opium or breadseed poppies (Papaver somniferum) are most commonly grown for their edible seeds. Corn or common poppies (Papaver rhoeas) are sometimes also used for their seeds.

Additionally, there are many other members of the poppy family explicitly grown for their flowers that may also produce edible seeds. For example, Plants for a Future (PFAF) lists Icelandic Poppies (Papaver nudicaule) and Oriental Poppies (Papaver orientale) as having edible seeds. However, for this post, we'll focus primarily on Papaver somniferum varieties for optimal culinary seed production.

Breadseed Poppies

Breadseed poppies (Papaver somniferum) are annual or tender perennial plants that readily self-seed if seed pods are allowed to overwinter on the stems. These are also the poppy used in agriculture for seed production. Additionally, the large seed pods are often used in floral arrangements.

Cultivars to Consider

Hungarian – These poppies can range in color from white to deep blue or purple. These are the easiest to find and most commonly used cultivar for heavy seed production.

Pepperbox – These poppies have pale to deep pink or red petals with purple interiors. They are sometimes called the florist's pepperbox because the seed pods have a beautiful robin's egg blue appearance.

Hens and Chicks – These poppies are similar in appearance to Pepperbox poppies though not usually as stunning. However, the seed pods have a large center pod surrounded by smaller side pods that suggest the appearance of a mother hen with her chicks.

The Giant – These poppies are big double blooms that can range from pale to deep pink. The seed pods hint at pink as well.

Peony, Pom Pom, or Carnation Poppies

Peony, pom pom, or carnation poppies are cultivars of Papaver somniferum that have been cultivated specifically for their ornamental flowers. They generally have double or giant blooms that make them more appealing as a border flower than production Breadseed Poppy varieties detailed in the prior section.

Because these poppies have been bred as ornamentals, and have lower levels of the illegal alkaloids used for drug-making, these are generally considered less of a legal risk for home growers.

If you'd like to consider growing ornamental poppies for seeds to limit your legal liability, there are all sorts of beautiful choices. Flemish Antique, Candy Floss, Pink Frizz, Black Swan, Frosted Salmon, and Whitecloud are some of the more popular and easier to grow options.

Poppy Planting

Planting poppies is about the difficulty level of planting something like dandelions in a lawn. In other words, they grow like weeds in fertile, well-draining soil. However, when growing them as a spice there are some tricks that you can use to better control your harvests.

USDA Zones

Most poppies, cultivated for their edible seeds, can be planted in USDA planting zones 3-9. Certain varieties may have narrower zone tolerance though.

Make sure to confirm zone suitability with your seed supply source.

Sun Requirements

Poppies can grow in both sun and part shade. However, for best production, at least 6 hours full sun is needed.

In hot climates, some afternoon shade can reduce stress on plants and increase your likelihood of growing large seed pods.

Soil Requirements

Poppies grown for seed can grow in a wide range of soils from agricultural fields to roadsides. You can also grow them in garden beds as long as it is not overly fertile in the top couple inches.

Excellent drainage is key for seed production as poppies prefer soil that is on the dry side. Heavy clay soils, or overly silty soils in wet areas, can be a problem for poppies.

Incorporate long-aged, complex compost, or leaf mold into the top 2 feet of soil to improve drainage before planting if necessary.

Seed Starting

Breadseed poppies are taprooted. That means they generally do not transplant well. So, directly seeding where the plants will grow is best.

If you do attempt to transplant poppies, water in the morning and evening to help plants establish until you see the leaves begin to grow again. Also, expect that your plants and seed pods will be smaller if you transplant seedlings. You may want to plant extra to make up the production difference.

Seeds germinate better after natural stratification such as planting in fall or winter and allowing seeds to germinate naturally in spring. You can also stratify seeds in the fridge or freezer.

For best results, scatter seeds over the surface of your planting area from late fall up to a few weeks before your last frost date. Heavily seed and thin later to ensure optimal germination rates. The seeds will germinate as soon as conditions are ideal for plant production, which is typically when the soil reaches 50-60°F.

Spacing

Most commercial guidelines suggest plant spacing of 4-inches apart in 1-foot rows for mechanical cultivation. For use in flower beds, planting as part of a mixed flower bed is recommended and allowing 1 foot of space per plant is frequently recommended.

I have personally had the highest production when plants are spaced about 4 inches apart on 6-8 inch rows in blocks that are about 3 to 4 feet wide in good garden soil.

Poppy Care

Poppies are very low maintenance. They germinate in cold temperatures and can withstand some frost. However, the flowers will die in a hard freeze. So if your flowers are at risk of freezing, you may need to cover them with row covers temporarily.

Watering

Poppies grow well in drier soil. However, they do need occasional watering. In extended hot or dry weather, make sure plants get the equivalent to 1/2-3/4 inches of rain per week. Also, keep the soil moist for young plants.

Weeding and Mulching

Poppies can typically hold their own against most common weeds once established. However, for the first month and a half after seedlings emerge, you'll want to keep your beds clear of weeds.

Do not mulch over poppy seeds or they will not germinate. However, you can mulch around the planting zone after seedlings emerge to help reduce weed pressure.

Fertilizing

Poppies grow best for seed production in soil that is fertile from the addition of organic matter, but not overly fertilized with fast-release nutrients. If you are growing poppies for seeds in your vegetable garden, planting them after heavy feeders in your crop rotation works well.

Do not plant poppies for seeds in soil that has high fertility in only the top few inches of soil or the taproot may be stunted and the plant will be subject to greater risk for fungal disease or falling over before the seed heads are ready for harvest.

Plants will perform best in soil that has been prepared to at least a foot in depth using methods like double digging or deep-tilling.

Cross-pollination

If you want to save your seeds to plant, as well as eat, make sure to keep your varieties separate to avoid cross-pollination issues. Since poppies are generally self-fertile, a distance of 2000 feet between varieties may be sufficient for small crops. However, a larger distance between varieties is recommended for best results.

Alternatively, you can watch for the flowers to open and use a paintbrush to expedite self-pollination for the plants you plan to save seeds from. Then, cover the flowers with paper bags for a couple of days to prevent possible cross-pollination.

Seed Pod Care

When growing poppies for flowers, you will deadhead them after bloom and can cut plants to the ground when they begin to yellow.

When growing for seeds, though, you need to make sure the plants remain healthy until the seed pods have fully plumped. I maintain fertility and moisture levels in the soil and monitor the health of my plants closely until the seed pods begin to dry.

Common Problems

Overall poppies are a very low-maintenance plant with few pest or disease problems. However, there are a few things to look out for.

Fungal Pathogens

Because poppies are adapted to drier soils, they are subject to fungal pathogens such as botrytis, downy mildew, and Pythium root rot in overly wet conditions.

Avoid irrigation, except in excessively dry or hot periods, and plant in soil with good drainage to avoid these issues.

Mosaic Virus

The Tobacco Mosiac and Papaver Mosiac Virus are possible problems for poppy plants. There is not much you can do in terms of treating infected plants. However, do not replant seeds saved from infected plants and avoid planting other susceptible plants in that contaminated area in the future.

Manganese Overload

Poppies can tolerate soil pH ranges from 5.5 – 7.5. However, poppy plants are susceptible to root stunting from excessive manganese in the soil at lower pH ranges.

To slow manganese uptake, ensure that the soil pH is closer to the 7.5 in soils that have excess manganese.

Boron Deficiency

Similar to cabbage and broccoli, poppies are more susceptible to disease if they do not have sufficient boron. Boron can be toxic to your soil if over applied. So, if you suspect boron deficiency in your soil, have a professional soil test done and use application rates per your test results.

Insects

Poppies grown in ideal conditions usually have very few insect problems. However, there are a few to watch out for if plants get stressed.

• Aphids – Aphids are generally found in large groupings on the stems of plants. They are often accompanied by ants who enjoy their sweet frass. Remove them by rubbing them gently off the plant parts with soapy water.
• Thrips – Thrips are tiny insects that dine on the undersides of leaves. You can look for them on the undersides of pale-colored, paper looking leaves. They are hard to control. Luckily, their damage tends to be mostly cosmetic. Remove infested leaves or whole plants as needed to prevent population increases.
• Spittlebugs – Spittlebugs are usually identified for the spittle-looking mass of eggs they leave on the underside of leaves and around plant stems. Their damage tends to be minimal, so control is not usually necessary. However, you can use water to remove the larva to keep populations in check.

Companion Planting

Best Companions

Poppies are excellent pollinator attracting plants. As such, they are lovely to plant in and around your vegetable garden. Generally though, they like to grow in their own space, among the company of other poppies, or as part of a mixed flower bed.

Worst Companions

Poppies are taprooted fertility scavengers. As such, you should avoid planting them near other taprooted scavengers such as lambsquarters, carrots, parsnips, or potatoes. Additionally, because they can be a bit aggressive in finding nutrients, you may not want to plant them in a bed with vegetables as a general rule.

Harvesting and Storing

The seed pods are ready to harvest when the star-like cap at the top of the pod begins to separate from the bowl portion. At this point, you can pour the seeds out through the vents under the cap into your storage container.

If you are worried about self-seeding or mold during wet weather, you can harvest the seed pods as soon as they are no longer green and show signs of browning. Hang them upside down inside a paper bag until the seeds fall out into the bag.

Allow your seeds to dry for a few days before closing your container.

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Do you want to create a perfect compost pile? Well, according to the USDA, the ideal carbon to nitrogen rate for optimal microbial action in a compost pile is between 20:1 and 40:1, with 24:1 being the absolute sweet spot.

So, you can either build a pile and hope for the best… or, you can use our compost calculator to help make sure your compost pile has good carbon to nitrogen ratios.

We've compiled the following list of carbon to nitrogen ration for compost materials from every reliable resource we could find. Now, those ratios are based on averages and actual C:N may vary a bit, however, these will still give you a really good idea of how much carbon to nitrogen you are putting in your pile.

How to Use the Compost Calculator

Using the calculator is very easy. You need to fill in how many “parts” of each compost ingredient you are planning to add to your pile. Then, scroll to the bottom to see if your ingredients add up to the ideal carbon to nitrogen ratio of between 20 to 40 to 1.

If they do, you can go and make your compost pile! If they don't, then add more parts of browns or greens, as needed, to get your compost pile recipe just right.

What is a “Part”?

A part can be any unit of measure that is useful to you. The key is to use the same measure of a part for every ingredient you put in your pile. For example, on the homestead 5-gallon buckets, wheelbarrows, or recycled feed sacks full of stuff are often used as a part.

Let's say you have a few 5-gallon buckets of kitchen scraps as your nitrogen heavy ingredient (often called greens). If you plan to use straw which is carbon heavy (often called brown) to get the right C:N, then you'll want to eye-ball and decide how much straw you need to make a similar sized ‘part' as a 5-gallon bucket.

This does require some imagination because kitchen scraps are heavy and moist. So, they squish down quite a bit. Straw, of course, is light and airy and doesn't compress so much. Likely, you'll want to err on the side of imagining an over-stuffed bucket of straw to make it similar to a more compressed bucket of kitchen scraps.

Since these ratios are averages and you can be between 20-40 on the carbon and still get good results, chances are you'll guestimate your parts just fine for good compost.

What About Using Weights?

You can also use weights. However, much of the weight difference in composting ingredients comes from water. Food wastes and many manures have lots of water in them. Dried leaves, straw, and paper have very little water in them.

If you want to work with weights, then you need to get the moisture level in your different compost ingredients to be about equal. That may require wetting browns and straining greens.

Or, you can weigh a small sample of your greens, dry it out, and weigh it again. Divide the ending weight by the original weight (e.g., 10 pounds wet, 1 pound dry is 1 lb. / 10 lb. = 0.10 lb.) Then, weigh your total greens, multiply them by your earlier results (e.g., 100 pounds wet x 0.10 = 10 pounds), and use the calculated figure as your number of parts for the calculator.

Browns that are totally dry, can be weighed as is. That total weight becomes your parts for entry into the calculator.

Things to Remember About Compost Piles

The real key to our compost calculator – whether you use weights or other units of measure like buckets and wheelbarrows – is to convert your various compost materials into some unit of measure that lets you compare apples to apples.

Don't worry! After making a few good compost piles, you'll get really good at this skill.

Also, your pile needs to end up at about 60% moisture. While kitchen scraps may already have a C:N of 20:1 and might technically be in the microbial sweet zone, they are also about 85-90% moisture.

So, you'll usually need to mix browns in with your kitchen scraps too. The browns will absorb the extra moisture and keep the air flowing, so your pile doesn't become anaerobic and stinky!

If your materials are quite wet, then push towards the 40:1 side of things. If they are closer to 60% moisture already, then shoot for the magic 24:1.

Carbon to Nitrogen Compost Calculator

Now, without further adieu, I present to you the most comprehensive carbon to nitrogen compost calculator we could create using a list of sources so long, you'll need to scroll down for ages to get to the bottom.

Common Browns

Materials	C/N Ratio	Parts	Carbon
Cardboard, Shredded	350	0
Hardwood Bark	223	0
Hardwood Mulch/Chips	560	0
Leaves – Dried	60	0
Leaves – Green	45	0
Newspaper, Shredded	450	0
Pine Needles	80	0
Sawdust	325	0
Softwood Bark	496	0
Softwood Mulch/Chips	641	0
Straw – Oat	60	0
Straw – Wheat	120	0
Wood Chips Mixed	400	0

Cover Crops

Materials	C/N Ratio	Parts	Carbon
Alfalfa	12	0
Annual Rye	26	0
Buckwheat	34	0
Clover	23	0
Cowpeas	21	0
German Foxtail Millet	44	0
Hairy Vetch	11	0
Japanese Millet	42	0
Mustard	26	0
Pearl Millet	50	0
Soybeans	20	0
Sudangrass	44	0
Winter Wheat	14	0

Household Waste

Materials	C/N Ratio	Parts	Carbon
Ashes, Wood	25	0
Coffee Grounds	20	0
Garden Waste	30	0
Grass Clippings	20	0
Hair or Fur	10	0
Kitchen Scraps	20	0
Leaves – Fresh	37	0
Paper Towels	110	0
Shrub Trimmings	53	0
Toilet Paper	70	0
Tomato Canning Waste	11	0
Tree Trimmings	16	0
Weeds – Dried	20	0
Weeds – Fresh	10	0

Crop Related Compost Materials

Materials	C/N Ratio	Parts	Carbon
Apple Pomace	13	0
Banana Leaves	25	0
Coconut Husks and Shells	180	0
Corn Cobs	80	0
Corn Stalks	75	0
Fruit Waste	35	0
Grape Pomace (Winery Waste)	65	0
Grape Vine Prunings	80	0
Hay – Grass	40	0
Hay – Legume	20	0
Legume Shells (e.g. Pea, Bean)	30	0
Olive Husks	30	0
Peanut Shells	35	0
Rice Hulls	121	0
Vegetable Waste – Leafy	10	0
Vegetable Waste – Starchy	15	0

Animal Manures

Materials	C/N Ratio	Parts	Carbon
Alpaca – Manure Only	16	0
Alpaca Litter	45	0
Bat Guano	3	0
Chicken – Manure Only	6	0
Chicken Litter	16	0
Cow – Manure Only	15	0
Duck Litter	16	0
Goat Manure	11	0
Horse – Manure Only	30	0
Horse Litter/Bedding	70	0
Humanure	7	0
Llama – Manure Only	20	0
Pig	14	0
Rabbit Manure	12	0
Sheep	15	0
Turkey Litter	16	0
Urine	0.8	0

Miscellaneous

Materials	C/N Ratio	Parts	Carbon
Crab and Lobster Waste	5	0
Fish Waste	5	0
Lumber Mill Waste	170	0
Meat Processing Wastes	3	0
Seaweed	10	0
Spent Grains – Large Brewery	12	0
Spent Grains – Microbrew	15	0
Water Hyacinth	25	0

Compost Activators

Materials	C/N Ratio	Parts	Carbon
Blood Meal	14	0
Cotton Seed Meal	7	0
Soybean Meal	7	0

Carbon to Nitrogen Ratio

Total Carbon Value	0
Total Nitrogen Value	0
Carbon to Nitrogen Ratio

Compost Calculator Conclusion

If you happen to know C:N ratios for anything not already on the list, please let us know and well add it into our compost calculator. May your compost microbes be happy and your garden be exceptionally fertile as a result!

List of References

• http://extensionpublications.unl.edu/assets/html/g1315/build/g1315.htm
• https://www.planetnatural.com/composting-101/making/c-n-ratio/
• https://ucanr.edu/sites/mginyomono/files/170818.pdf
• http://cwmi.css.cornell.edu/AppendixATable1OFCH.pdf
• http://agrienvarchive.ca/bioenergy/download/barker_ncsu_manure_02.pdf
• http://www.carryoncomposting.com/416920203
• http://docs.nmcomposters.org/2014-mc-project-bw.pdf
• http://humanurehandbook.com/downloads/H4/Ch_09_Compost_Nuts%20and%20Bolts.pdf
• http://sweeta.illinois.edu/composting-horsebedding.cfm
• http://vermontllamaalpacaassociation.blogspot.com/2012/05/composting-your-camelid-manure-101.html
• http://docs.nmcomposters.org/carbon-nitrogen-ratio-simplified.pdf
• https://compost-turner.net/composting-technologies/grape-stalks-and-pomace-composting-process.html
• https://bit.ly/2Knvgsh [URL too long]
• https://www.agweb.com/article/understand-carbon-to-nitrogen-ratios-before-buying-cover-crop-seed/
• https://www.webpal.org/SAFE/aaarecovery/1_farm_recovery/humanure/newchapter03_07.htm
• https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/summer-cover-crops
• https://nph.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1111/j.1469-8137.1928.tb06729.x
• cespubs.uaf.edu/index.php/download_file/1258/

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Imagine a school where inner-city kids spend part of their day in a garden learning to grow and cook organic foods. Sounds pretty amazing, right? Edible Schoolyard is an organization that makes that happen. In Brooklyn, they transformed this elementary school parking lot into a thriving half-acre organic farm. The students here grow, harvest, and cook nearly 160 different vegetables, fruits, herbs, and grains.

Edible Schoolyard was founded in 1995 by restaurateur and food activist Alice Waters, who initiated the project in Berkeley, California. She understood that integrating such a program into school curriculums was the best way to teach children the connections between food, health, and the environment.

In 2010, the nonprofit brought Waters’ vision to New York City and opened its first demonstration school in Brooklyn. The programs at the Brooklyn school and the one that followed in Manhattan have proven to be successful and valuable additions to these schools’ curriculums.

“Edible Schoolyard NYC’s mission is to support edible education for every child in New York City. All children are educated and empowered to make healthy food choices for themselves, their communities, and their environment, actively achieving a just and sustainable food system for all.” – Edible Schoolyard NYC

The demonstration schools in the program offer hands-on daytime activities for students, and they also work with local communities to provide access to fresh produce and encourage healthy eating.

In an area where student obesity rates and poverty rates are disproportionately high, programs like this have a remarkable impact on a community and, ideally, on the futures of the children involved.

The community programs include evening cooking workshops, weekend community days when gardens and kitchens are open to the public, a low-cost farmstand where produce is sold, and student-organized tastings of recipes that are cooked with foods they grow. All workshops are free and are accessible to the communities the schools serve.

“The goal of all of our programs is to change the preferences, attitudes, and eating behaviors of young New Yorkers in favor of healthier foods. We do this through hands-on, experiential classes that are integrated into the daily school curriculum. In our gardens and kitchens, in homerooms and cafeterias, we’re working to ensure that all children have access to the joyful, transformative power of enjoying fresh and healthy food.” – Edible Schoolyard NYC

Is the program making a difference in these communities? According to Edible Schoolyard NYC’s impact page, it is!

• Over the last two years, they have grown over 97 crop varieties weighing 1,534 pounds in the two teaching gardens
• 95% of children tried the food in the kitchen classes last year, and 89% said they enjoyed it
• 19% of students took food from the salad bar in 2015 compared to less than 1% in 2013
• Parents surveyed reported that their kids ask for healthier foods at home and show interest in cooking

Becoming active participants in growing, harvesting, and cooking food is a wonderful way for kids to make healthy and sustainable choices. Going “off grid” with food and gaining independence from the commercial food system is one of the most powerful steps one can take toward a sustainable lifestyle. I love that these kids are learning this so young, and in a Brooklyn parking lot, of all places. If they can do it, just about anyone can!

Visit Edible Schoolyard NYC to read more about this incredible organization. Throughout the site, you’ll find heartwarming quotes from students, some of whom had never previously stepped foot into a garden. Some report that being involved in the garden is the best part of their day. If you want to help Edible Schoolyard’s mission, you can get involved by volunteering, donating, or simply by sharing the information.

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This article first appeared on offgridworld.com Check it out here

Using natural fly repellents can be effective to rid your home of flies.

Before we get started with the list of natural fly remedies, it’s important to note that you must identify the exact species of fly you’re dealing with before you can get rid of it. You have to know your enemy, right?

The house fly is the most common type of fly. It’s attracted to animal waste, garbage and any kind of decaying matter. You’ll likely see these throughout the year, but most commonly in the warm summer months. Fruit flies, like house flies, are also attracted to garbage, but more commonly like to linger near partially decayed, sweet-smelling fruit (hence the name).

Another common type of fly—that may be rearing its ugly head around this time of the year—is the cluster fly. Cluster flies are lethargic, slow-moving flies that are attracted to warm, sunny places. You’ll likely see them if you have a large, productive garden, as they are parasitic to earthworms. Cluster flies, unlike house flies, do not carry or transmit disease, but are a nuisance to have around.

Other possible—but less common—types of flies include blow flies, flesh flies, drain flies and stable flies. You likely have no need to worry about these species invading your domesticity.

1. Homemade fly strips

Fly strips (or fly tapes) are a great way to get rid of flies, but come with many ugly side effects. The unsightly and messy yellow “goop” that attracts and eventually kills unwanted flies contains chemicals and leaves a disgusting, slimy residue around your house.

All natural way to rid your home of pesky insects

A more natural—and less gross—solution is to create your own fly paper. It is much more attractive and uses non-toxic materials that can be found around the house. To create, cut a brown paper bag into 2-3-inch-wide strips. Dip the strips into a mixture of sugar, honey and water. Then, hang the strips using twine wherever flies like to congregate. If they happen to dry out before they’ve annihilated your fly population, simply spritz them with water.

Less mess, less stress.

2. Apple cider vinegar traps

Apple cider vinegar traps are another way of ridding yourself of unwanted flies. Flies can often be found even in the most spotless of kitchens. Simply place an open bowl of apple cider vinegar, water and dish soap near a trashcan or sink. Within a day or two you will find the bowl swimming with the dead buggers, without endangering food safety or the health of your curious pets.

3. Plants

Besides the obvious Venus fly traps, there are numerous plants that can be grown to naturally lower your fly population. Herbs such as basil, bay laurel, rosemary, lavender, mint and even citronella help to repel flies. Because they have strong scents, flies generally stay away from these multipurpose plants.

Most fly-repelling plants can be grown outside or potted indoors, and several are even perennial. This low-maintenance option will help you season your tomato sauce and maintain a pest-free homestead.

4. Essential oils

If fresh or live herbs don’t work as well as you’d like in your fly-combatting efforts, you can also extract the oils from these plants. Harvest them in the morning after the dew has dried but before the sun has burned off any oils. Place the oils in diffusers or open jars around the house.

Other helpful essential oils include tea tree, eucalyptus and cedar.

5. Plastic water bags

This is probably the easiest and one of the most effective fly remedies. A bag of water serves as a lens and reflects movement. Flies are naturally skittish, and will fly away from the bag out of fear.

Fill a plastic bag with water, and hang wherever you tend to find flies (such as near outdoor trash cans). It should repel the flies before they get a chance to invade your domesticity.

6. Place cloves in citrus

Try using citrus as a natural fly repellent.

While we tend to like the smell and flavor of cloves, flies absolutely abhor them. Cloves are the most effective against houseflies. As a result, flies will stay away from areas where they are present.

They also hate the fresh smell of citrus, so what you will need to do is take an orange or lemon and cut it in half. Poke about a dozen individual cloves into each half of the citrus. Place the slices on a countertop or other open surface. You will find that your fly population drops dramatically.

7. DIY fly killer spray

If you’re like most people, you hate using chemical-ridden sprays around the house—especially in places where you eat. An easy fly killer alternative is to combine dish soap, Windex, vinegar, and water in a large spray bottle.

This method requires vigilance, as you’ll need to spray the flies as they appear, but after several applications you should find that the amount of flies decreases.

8. Red wine traps

Flies love the sweet smell of red wine. If you place red wine in a bowl with some dish soap or vinegar, they’ll be drawn to the scent of the wine and drown in the liquid.

9. Lure them out with light

Most bugs—including flies—are attracted to light. Darken the room in which you tend to find them by lowering blinds.

You can also place light traps in an attic or other enclosed space that humans typically don’t frequent. Light traps will keep flies out without the application of stinky, toxic chemicals.

10. Get physical

It seems obvious, but if you don’t want flies in your house, don’t invite them in! Take out the trash on a regular basis, and keep trash bins far away from your house. Keep your kitchen tidy and make sure there aren’t any stray crumbs hiding in nooks and crannies. Cover pet food dishes and don’t leave food out on the counter.

Make sure your house is well sealed—cluster flies like to invade in the fall months when they are looking for a place to spend the cold winter months. These pests can find their way into the house through the smallest of spaces, so make sure any air gaps are sealed and holes in window screens are repaired before these buggers become a problem.

What tips would you add? Share your advice in the section below:

The post 10 Natural Fly Repellents To Help Rid Your Home Of Flies appeared first on Off The Grid News.

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Do you live in a smaller area and assume you can’t grow much (if any) type of garden? You may not be able to grow large quantities or even larger vegetables, but you should be able to produce something.

Salad tables are becoming quite the rage. They allow people to have a little garden – on legs – in a small yet sunny area.

This would work well on a front porch, back porch, deck, or even on a sunny balcony. Not only does it have a very convenient height, but you can move it, and it produces just enough for a constant supply of salad when applying salad gardening techniques.

I’m going to share a few neat ideas to inspire you to create a salad table around your home.

Here are a few design ideas to inspire your future gardening adventure:

1. The Lettuce Table

This is a DIY option which is perfect for growing lettuce and other shallow-rooted crops. It’s constructed from an old table.

From there, they built up the sides to be able to hold dirt. The dirt was added, leaf seeds were planted, and a lettuce garden was born.

2. The DIY Salad Table

If you’re interested in growing shallow-rooted vegetables, this DIY salad table could certainly work for you.

There’s a great visual to show you how the table can be easily built, and it includes a mesh bottom which will help keep the soil properly draining and the crops growing.

3. Strawberry Raised Grow Table

Are you interested in raising your own strawberry crop this year? You could raise them in a hanging basket or even a window box.

However, if you’d prefer having them on an easily accessible growing table, you could order this style or use it to inspire your own build.

4. The Double Decker Salad Bench

This salad bench is constructed from wood and has a mesh bottom. This allows the plants to drain properly.

The great thing about this design is you have more growing space because of the bottom layer – the lettuce grows in containers sitting on top of the bench.

5. DIY Salad Bench

I love the design of this salad bench. It’s a single layer raised bench which makes tending to your lettuce crop much easier.

From there, small drawers with mesh bottoms are built. Handles are attached to make maneuvering the drawers easier. This is where the lettuce will grow.

6. The Waist High Planter Box

Would you like to grow a little more than lettuce? This waist high planter box could be exactly what you need.

The height makes it simpler to care for your crops, and it’s a little deeper than some of the other salad tables mentioned above. The tutorial and pictures are detailed and should make for a smooth build.

7. The Built-In Salad Bar

This image is meant for inspiration purposes only as there is no tutorial to help you along. However, it’s a neat idea.

If you’d love to have a growing space and a dining space, the built-in salad bar dining table could be the right fit for you.

8. The Hydroponic Lettuce Table

This lettuce table, set at a manageable height where you don’t strain your back, take things a step further. You can skip having to water it because it also has a built-in hydroponic system.

9. Lettuce and Herb Table

Would you like to plant lettuce and herbs but there’s no room in your garden area? You could create a small growing table specifically for them.

This salad or growing table is an easy set-up. It’s basically a potting bench where you can grow a small container garden, perfect for lettuce or herbs.

10. Patio Lettuce Table

I love this simple and sleek design for a lettuce table. It would fit in perfectly with most patio or porch settings.

If you’d like a basic wooden salad table with a flat edge and plenty of room for two rows of small veggies, this could be your growing table.

11. The Gutter Garden

If you’d like to grow lettuce but feel as though the grow table is rather boring, and you don’t want to take up space with an entire table consider the gutter garden.

This is a vertical option for growing lettuce in gutters. It can be pushed flat against a balcony wall and be a compact version of the salad table.

12. Self-Watering Veggie Table

Growing your own lettuce may sound like a great idea, but what if you have a demanding schedule and fear you won’t have time to care for it?

Consider this veggie table as a viable option as it allows you to grow your crops but includes a self-watering option for less maintenance.

13. Tabletop Salad Picnic Table

Many people don’t have much room to grow crops. In these situations, it’s wise to be able to combine growing space with living space.

Above is a great idea which allows you to do this. There’s no tutorial, but this idea can be used to inspire you. Create a picnic table with an area in the center to raise flowers, herbs, or lettuce.

14. The Divided Grow Table

Are you interested in having a wooden veggie table which will allow you to raise as many varieties of lettuce as your heart desires?

When growing different varieties, it’s nice to be able to divide them out. This table is divided into three different sections and allows for a nice layout when growing a variety of crops.

15 & 16. Purchasable Options

If DIY is not quite your thing, but you are eager to have your own raised table planter, have a look at this solid fir wood option from Amazon, as well as this quality plastic lettuce table, highly recommended from Amazon.

You now have 16 different options for awesome salad tables, which will make gardening convenient and a realistic possibility regardless of growing limitations or physical limitations you may be experiencing.

Again, most of these tables are meant for shallow-rooted crops such as lettuce. However, there are a few which can sustain larger crops.

It could make gardening a reality for those who feared it couldn’t be. Use these ideas to grow your own veggies and your dreams.

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